Sunday, April 16, 2006

In Search of a Signature Perfume

I made the same annoucement on a makeup forum earlier but here's the lo down: Eau de Cartier and I might be breaking up. I love how softly herbaceous and peachy it is, and I even like the transparent floralcy that feels very sporty and modern but not overwhelmingly marine...however, I think I'm wanting it to give more than it can give. I'm a dynamic woman--I'm the in-your-face lead vocalist type. I demand some power from my perfume so it can keep up with me. Therefore, I think Eau de Cartier, as unisex, modern and fabulous as it is, just seems too soft and quiet for what I need, even for just casual everyday spritzing. I'm going to give it a few more wears this week and decide whether I'll need the Prestige Edition 200ml megabottle after all, not that I'll ever finish a bottle half its size.

So I'm left with Pink Manhattan PURRFUME which of course is my favorite perfume--I mean, I made it, and lovingly I would add--but PM, in my mind, is a sexy date/occasion perfume, a perfume that wows, that meets a particular demand. I've heard from more than a couple of people who made PM their wedding perfume which I think is the ultimate compliment. It could be a casual scent, too, being sweet, young and fresh in its character, but it's not "Friday at the office casual" but more "going out on the weekend in heels casual". If PM is my special day/night/occasion-make-his-head-turn perfume, I need an everyday scent that goes politely to the office like a white linen suit, too. So you see, no one should have to live with just one signature. We need at least two.

I was hoping Eau de Cartier would fit this "office 'fume" bill but it turns out to be much more muted-fruity than I want. The texture on me ends up vaguely like syrupy canned peach on dry down (which I blame the violet leaves for, or perhaps yuzu), only powdery and unsweet (ok, maybe more like fuzzy peach skin). Such a shame because I like the sharp and fresh green aspect of it. Maybe it's just that I haven't been wildly complimented on this scent, and I'm used to getting raves on my other favorites, particularly on the ones with more floralcy and sweetness weaving through.

Jasmine is a note I can wear well (although it depends on the type of jasmine, too), and I'm constantly complimented on Marc Jacobs Blush (although cool and light, it's got pervasive floral sweetness), Le Labo Jasmin 17 (as animalic-musky as it is, it creates pretty sillage, plus it's very high quality and lasts on me--it vaguely reminds me of Pecksniff's Natural Floral and Marc Jacobs Blush) and even though it's not even a personal favorite, Creed Jasmal (green, clean, unsweet jasmine) and Patricia de Nicolai Eau d'Ete (musky jasmine with real lime essential oils--lovely and sensual but again, musky). Men have stopped me for the name of my perfume with Creed Spring Flower (rose-jasmine-apple-melon-peach which is one of my signatures but now and then feels too musky and appley-sweet), and yes, I get raves on my PM as well (not jasmine but gardenia, another intoxicating white floral). Does getting compliments affect how much you love a perfume? I feel like Eau de Cartier must not be wowing anyone because it's just not wow enough of a scent, and I like to wow and to be adored and all. Can a fragrance be an office scent and still be sexy or is that asking for too much?

This week, I plan to wear the following: Marc Jacobs Blush, Le Labo Jasmin 17, Pecksniff's Natural Floral (which I think I prefer in lotion than in EDP due to its strength), PdN Eau d'Ete, Montale Aoud Rose Petals (powerful agarwood (oud)-rose blend), L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons (ultrafeminine floral-citrus-oakmoss blend with a classic vibe), Chanel Chance (peppery transparent floral--pretty and chic but so very mainstream as in everyone wears it, and kind of chalky), Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle (medicinal tuberose--way too bizarre as a blend to wear everyday, plus it's not even available in the US--I can only buy decants on eBay), a take off (some say rip off) of Tubereuse Criminelle named Frederic Malle Carnal Flower (medicinal tuberose with a more animalic jasmine, a sharp and simple blend that doesn't really wow but can be nice in small amounts), Prescriptives Calyx (sparkly lotion--I don't need another fruity scent but it never fails to get a comment), maybe Pierre Balmain Ivoire, Sisley Eau du Soir, Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee (I don't have any yet), Serge Lutens Un Lys (another Serge that's no longer sold here but thankfully, as gorgeous as the Madonna lily-vanilla scent is, I don't think I loved anyway), Creed Spring Flower (which is closest to being my signature but I might be too tired of), and Eau de Cartier for what might be our final run.