Today, I'm testing Guerlain Metalys, formerly known as Metallica before Guerlain got sued by the band over the name. I like this a lot, although I don't see hunting down a bottle of the stuff that's so hard-to-find. My favorite stage is the dry down when I get a delicious cookie note--I'm thinking Stella D'Oro Marguerite but better. This carnation blend is not too spicy but rather scrumptious with the perfect vanilla counterpoint. The vanilla note is sweet enough for me (mmm!) and just right in how tempered it is (I like sweet but dry vanillas like this the most). If this perfume started more or less smelling like this, I'd be in seventh heaven. However, most of the ride reminds me of a cross between Lea St. Barth, Cashmere Mist and Creative Scentualization Perfect Veil (all creamy-powdery baby oil-musky skin scents) with a punchy, slightly sour aldehydic beginning which I know is the violet but it reminds me of Nanadebary Pink or Bill Blass Nude (complete with the muted pear note). The guerlinade is delightfully honeyed and sensual in the beginning. So this is my assessment from finish to start: It's classy and sophisticated in a Gourmand way that translates well in our time.
(Image: Metallica "Masters of Puppets" poster, www.allposters.com)