Monday, July 16, 2007


Guerlain Jicky: Created in 1889 by Aimé Guerlain, it's regarded as a pioneer scent in Western Perfumery being among the first to successfully incorporate synthetics to create a complex, modern perfume. However, as complex as this fragrance is, it smells simple and effortlessly chic to me. I've read many reviews that reflected and vindicated my thoughts about Jicky having a cold, stone-like character, but I also find a subtle gingerbread-like sweetness and warmth about it. It's often called an Oriental fragrance and it most certainly is if you tune into the tonka-infused, husky leathery animalic muskiness, but it's also a brisk Aromatic Fougere. Fougere is a fragrance family often reserved for men's fragrances (such as Brut). I wouldn't say Jicky smells like Brut but it certainly smells like it could suit anyone who favored a somewhat offbeat, clean-and-fuzzy yet substantial, refined and classic scent.

Today, I'm wearing Parfum de Toilette (EDP) from a generous decant from a lovely friend, which somehow I find more floral than the EDT and parfum. As much as I love all three versions, I might get the EDP before I shell out for parfum again. With all the leather perfumes being discontinued this year (Parure, Derby and Dzing (rumored only the small size will be)), I can't help but wonder if Jicky in any form will hang around to be discovered by another generation of devoted fans.

Speaking of Fougere, I'm eager to smell some of the newer Fougeres cropping up for women now, like the new Sarah Jessica Parker Covet which someone recently compared to Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche (which would make sense since Eau Fraiche smelled very aftershave-cool and herbaceous to me), but Jicky is the original archetype, an exceptional perfume with a great history to be experienced at least once. Sometimes I think of Jicky as being Shalimar broken down--Jicky is to Shalimar what a harp is to a piano, and if a harp is a piano in the nude, then Jicky is the essence of Shalimar, or the bombshell on an au naturale kind of day.

Celeb users: Brigitte Bardot, Sean Connery, Jackie O

Notes according to Basenotes:
Guerlain Jicky (1889)
Top Notes: Lemon, Mandarin, Bergamot, Rosewood
Middle Notes: Orris, Jasmin, Patchouli, Rose, Vetiver
Base Notes: Leather, Amber, Civet, Tonka, Incense, Benzoin

Notes on
head notes : lavender, rosemary, bergamot
heart notes : rose, fern harmony (aromatic notes, earthy forest note and pelargonium), tonka bean
base notes : woody notes, vanilla, opoponax

Michael Edwards' notes:
Top Notes: Lavender, bergamot, rosemary, rosewood
Heart: Geranium, jasmine, rose
Base: Tonka bean, opopanax, vanilla, coumarin