Thursday, July 19, 2007

Les Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Une Fleur de Cassie

What a wonderful perfume this is, although for me, it was an acquired taste. I find it very dry and sharp but the sweetness is just right for me, thanks to Dominique Ropion whose perfume creations have included powerflorals such as Givenchy Amarige and Carnal Flower. The overall composition of this scent keeps my interest as it reveals layer upon layer. It took more than a few tries for me to appreciate because it starts out punchy-sharp and watery, like a fresh vegetable being pulled out of the dirt. That's not what I desire smelling of, plus that kind of scent seems to pop off the top layer of my skin like a fauvist experiment, but it evolves into a sophisticated, powdery-sweet, musky woods scent that radiates off my skin with a slightly au naturale BO twist. I think it's a very well-balanced composition, although I probably will not upgrade from this sample because the final dry down on me is pretty much straight woods and it pulls back on sweetness (my verdict may of course change with further testing). Edited to add: I want a bottle now.

I would compare it to Iris Poudre but this is more delicate and more wearable for me, although it's still rich rather than a light and refreshing scent. I find it also shares similarities with Chanel Bois des Iles, a dry, powdery-woodsy Aldehydic Floral. To me, Une Fleur de Cassie has a honey-like muskiness, a bit strange and animalic like L'Artisan Parfumeur Orchidee Blanche. I also find it a bit spicy and stimulating, like an almond scent, but this I know is the effect of high quality sandalwood. The addition of cedar makes the woody base bolder, wearable by men and women. If you like fresh florals (mimosas in particular) and musky woods, I think Une Fleur de Cassie is an exceptional one to try.

Notes on
Une Fleur de Cassie (2000)
Bergamot orange, Rose, Violet, Cassie Absolute, Mimosa Absolute, Jasmine Absolute, Clove, Cumin, Apricot, Aldehydes, Salicylate, Musk Cetone, Cedar, Sandalwood

Notes from
Bergamot, aldehydes, rose, violet, acacia absolute, sandalwood, cedar, musk, vanilla