Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Les Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Iris Poudré

One of the highlights of my year was meeting pianist André Watts who had spoken about how we don't know we love a piece of music until we make ourselves learn to play it. How right he is.
Iris Poudré by Pierre Bourdon for Les Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle is my current obsession. It's a fragrance that's grown on me over time as I did not find it appealing at first due to my sensitivity to aldehydes. I don't necessarily believe in love at first sniff, and this perfume proves that some things are worth testing until it unfolds its magic in subtle ways that can be easily overlooked.

Iris Poudré for me is a cold weather scent, one that reminds me of another one in the Malle line I love called Une Fleur de Cassie, only spicier and darker. I hadn't noticed the jasmine in Iris Poudré until recently, and it really sings out on dry down. I can never resist a good white floral, and jasmine is among my very favorite notes. Combined with a classic combination of rose, violet, ylang-ylang and iris, this is an Aldehydic Floral with Oriental tones hinting at Chanel No.5 and Caron Nuit de Noel for a modern audience of powdery perfume lovers. It starts out sharp and slightly jagged with spices, with sumptuous but dry, ambery-woody base notes holding everything down. It floats in space at an extreme juxtapositioning of hot and cool, then melts together soft and warm, simmering with thoughts of sweet surrender.

This is passion in a bottle but of a cerebral kind, restrained until precisely where and when it counts. If a grand piano had a scent, it would drip of precious notes like polished, resinous ebony and smooth, silky ivory--just the way this scent does.

I'm revising my year end Top 10 for 2007 and adding Iris Poudré.