Thursday, May 31, 2007

Jean Patou Joy

This is long overdue; I need to sing my praises for Jean Patou's famous Joy perfume. I have this in just about every concentration: parfum (which is glorious and I'm almost out so I need to replace it soon), Eau de Joy (eau de parfum), eau de toilette, and although I didn't keep these, I also used to have body cream (no sparkling top notes so I thought it was too muted--you might prefer it if the top notes are too heady) and parfum solide (same problem I had with the body cream--too muted, no bright sparkle). Joy was one of my mother's signatures when I was growing up, and it's a perfume I instantly loved at first sniff. Some people are sensitive to the indolic character of this scent. I only smell pure flowers, but of a rich, unflowery type (it's more abstract and sweet to me, probably thanks to aldehydes and narcotic white florals). How would I describe its scent? It's an intoxicating, dazzling Floral blend of pure jasmine and rose, with other elements that are only there to support these two notes, the heart of perfumery, so they could take center stage and shine. I'd heard a couple of years ago that Joy (parfum) is one of two perfumes that are still made with real Grasse jasmine and rose essential oils (the other being Chanel No.5 parfum). I hope Joy is never, ever discontinued or changed, and may its quality stay with us for as long as we have love for Joy.

"The costliest perfume in the world" was created in 1930 during the Depression to give American women a chance to wear the very best perfume when they could no longer afford couture clothing. The perfume is said to have been created to be "free of vulgarity...impudent, crazy and extravagant beyond reason" (from "Bombshell Manual of Style" by Laren Stover). Famous wearers of Joy include Marilyn Monroe, Josephine Baker and Jackie Onassis.

Michael Edwards' notes in Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances
"Joy is a floral bouquet based on a very rich accord of two natural notes: jasmine and rose." -Jean Patou

Top notes: Bulgarian rose, tuberose, ylang-ylang
Heart notes: Jasmine, May rose
Base notes: Jasmine, May rose

Jan Moran's notes:
Year Introduced: 1930
Scent Type: Floral
Top Notes: Aldehydes, peach, greens, calyx
Heart Notes: Jasmine, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, orchid, lily of the valley, orris, tuberose
Base Notes: Sandalwood, musk, civet

(Images: lady.qq.com, osmoz.it)

Rich Hippie Wild Thing

When I first smelled Wild Thing, I immediately thought "Jean Patou Joy". It's not that they smell so similar that I'll ever mistake one for the other; it's that both compositions are predominantly jasmine and rose, two natural notes that make up the heart of perfumery and smell so good together, like fragrant soul mates. I could say Wild Thing is the less fancy version, the one with less notes and more earthiness. It's one of my favorites in the Rich Hippie line, although I like Devotion and Spring enough that I won't be adding it to my collection (and besides, I already have Joy). It's worth sniffing if you want to know what real jasmine and rose essential oils together should smell like (and if you'd like to compare it to Joy as I have). On my skin, the rose seems to dominate, and it turns just a little bit naughty-musky on me. There must be a reason why rose is so coveted: the dry down stage is quite suggestive and sexual, living up to its name.

(Image: Rich Hippie Wild Thing organic perfume, 1/2 fl. oz., www.rich-hippie.com)

Saturday, May 26, 2007

Avon Sweet Honesty

I'd been curious about this one forever because it's so often mentioned as being part of the 1970s olfactory landscape. A sweet perfpal of mine sent me a whole bottle of it as a gift, and tonight I'm finally experiencing its famous powdery-musky floral softness. It's slightly "soapy" and reminds me of Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige or perhaps J. Lo Glow or China Rain. I can see how other musky florals such as Amazing Grace might have borrowed from its idea. Although in the past, I had been anti-baby powdery scents for grown women, I can see how a scent like this becomes popular; it's unobtrusive, it lasts well and the level of sweetness in it masks the inexpensive quality of the somewhat aftershave-y base very well. Above all, it's very pleasant for such a musky scent. It leaves pretty sillage. It's powdery with a touch of baby oil scent, almost like a sweeter, more feminine version of Canoe. I think this is one of the best made inexpensive perfumes out there--I'm impressed, Avon. You're worth more than you're often given credit for--you're a perfume house that's produced a lovely, memorable fragrance. Have a good weekend, everyone.

Avon Sweet Honesty (1973): A floral heart blooming with honey, citrus and vanilla

Sweet Honesty is classified as a Woody Floral according to Javaslublu.com

(Image: shop.avon.com)

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Uploaded Pics

New photos have been added onto Broadjam and onto my website at www.salioguri.com. Check 'em out!

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Rich Hippie Devotion

What's in a name? Is it the reason I'm so devoted to this unexpected love of mine? As I finished up the last precious drop of my sample, I realized that it has a subtle honeylike sweetness that other lemon scents I've tried didn't have. Other lemons smell sharp and bitter in comparison and won't replace this passion for me. Rich Hippie describes this blend as being a "Young, sexy, romantic floral with light and airy notes of French Lemon, Moroccan Verveine and Italian Clementine". As I said before, it's very short-lived on my skin and I can't imagine it would be long-lasting on anybody being such a light scent, but for me, there's something about it that feels almost therapeutic. From what I've read, many different types of lemon and vervain (verbena, verveine) oils have been used in different cultures to treat ailments such as depression and anxiety. Does it resonate with me because I'm feeling under pressure, or is it the comforting scent of lemon and honey that takes me someplace golden in my mind where I'd like to be?

(Pictured: Rich Hippie Devotion organic perfume, 1/2 fl. oz., www.rich-hippie.com)

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Sali Oguri "Come On Up" and Persephone May Sale!

Today:
Sali Oguri "Come On Up" is back on the Rock New Wave Top 10 chart at Broadjam.


Visit me on My Space and now, you can buy the songs from Sali Oguri Pink Manhattan CD directly from me!



Fragrance: Rich Hippie Devotion, a superlight, lemony blend. The staying power is next to nil, but if you want an extremely pure, organic lemon, this is it. I just got Spring, and I'm loving it; here is a sweet, sunshiney, honeyed jasmine blend with a soft, green earthiness mixed in. I'll write reviews of some more Rich Hippie fragrances in the upcoming weeks, so please stay tuned.













Use code MOMSROCK on email orders during the month of May, 2007 to save on your purchases of Sali Oguri Unreleased Mix a.k.a. Persephone perfume. Free shipping over $50. Visit Wuj Productions.

Sunday, May 13, 2007

Guerlain L'Heure Bleue: A Perfume Lover's Perfume

Some of my most cherished perfumes are from the legendary perfume house of Guerlain. L'Heure Bleue (1912) is probably my very favorite (next to Metallica, perhaps). I couldn't handle my mother's once-signature, Mitsouko (which is also a great perfume in its own right), but I love L'Heure Bleue, which is somewhat similar and by the same nose (Jacques Guerlain). The bergamot opening brings Shalimar to mind but in Shalimar, the citrus is brighter. L'Heure Bleue is to me a strange, perfumy, very old-fashioned classic with a rosy heart, cool anise-violet touches, sugar & spice and everything nice, especially its warm, sweet, signature ambery vanillic base. It's hard-to-wear and not something I'd recommend to anyone but a goddess on earth or the most discerning perfume connoisseur. L'Heure Bleue is at once elegant, ethereal, young-at-heart and passionate--but it carries some depth and wisdom with it: it's a complex and original work of art, a perfume lover's perfume.

Take the quiz at www.guerlain.com and discover your Guerlain fragrance. These are the recommendations I got: Insolence, L'Instant, Shalimar, Samsara, Nahema and L'Heure Bleue, scents that "Seduce".

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Happy Mother's Day Weekend!

I think Mom and I are pretty typical of people who care about one another: sometimes we clash and sometimes we see eye-to-eye. Our tastes may differ at times but there are still things we can bond over and enjoy together. I hope you'll get a kick out of these favorite things I consider to be our "middle ground", the stuff that can make us both smile:

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Music: We love the sensational singing voice of the beautiful classic actor-vocalist, Ms. Lena Horne. Click on either Lena Horne photo to see and hear memorable performances.

Lena Horne was magnificent on Sesame Street. Here she is singing a duet called "How Do You Do?" with her friend, Grover: Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket

Did you know she'd won a Grammy for Best Pop Female Vocal Performance in the same year Pat Benatar won one in Rock for "Fire and Ice"?

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Movie: The Earrings of Madame de...(1953) Rent this classic and you're in for a noir masterpiece. I saw it recently on 35mm at Film Forum in NYC. I'm not sure if the rental would have subtitles that are easy to see, since even at the theatre I thought some words looked washed out against the black and white screen, but the visuals in the film are nonetheless elegant and enjoyable.

Perfume: If you can't agree on Guerlain Mitsouko or Coquette Tropique, try these classic Floral options for gift-giving:

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Jean Patou JOY (1930) is the classic jasmine-rose floral, the benchmark of great French perfumery against which all other perfumes are measured. Glamour never goes out of style, and Mom deserves "olfactory diamonds".

A drugstore classic redolent of sweet jasmine is Diane Von Furstenberg Tatiana. This lovely perfume was created by DVF as a dedication to her daughter. I'm not sure how easy it is to find now, but if you're thinking about buying a higher end jasmine such as Calypso Jala St. Barth, try this for comparison.

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There are mother-daughter creations that span over a few generations: Caron Nocturnes (1981) is a luminous Aldehydic Floral blend of sandalwood, moss and white floral (stephanotis) with lively citrus notes. It was created as a modernized version of Nuit de Noel (1925), a woody, unsweet, powdery Aldehydic Floral with warm, mossy, earthy tones. I prefer the newer Nocturnes but the original is considered a true classic and has its fans. Parfum Sacre is another Caron perfume that was created as a modernized version of Or et Noir, the mother of all dark roses.

Thank you, all you mothers and sisters and aunts and grandmothers and angels in heaven and on Earth. We honor you--in a nutshell, thanks for havin' us and keeping us alive.

Sunday, May 06, 2007

Polarity

I know people say like attracts like...but as far as I know, positive attracts negative, at least when it comes to magnets.

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

Unreleased Mix a.k.a. Persephone Perfume May Sale!



When you place your email order through persephone@salioguri.com, include the code "MOMSROCK" to receive discounts on all full bottle purchases. A 1/4 fl. oz. parfum oil is $99 USD and a 1/8 fl. oz. is $55 USD from now until May 31, 2007. Orders over $50 will ship for free within the USA. Please visit Wuj Productions.