Sunday, September 30, 2007

Les Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower

Whoever pegged me as a Carnal Flower lover last year was a year early in her prediction but right on with her assessment. Maybe my love of L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons whispered a clue that I had a tendency to fall weak to my knees for white florals such as tuberose, gardenia, jasmine and other tropical, fleshy flowers redolent of sweet nectar. Even though there's something sharp and medicinal weaving through Carnal Flower, and even though I don't like knowing white musk and salicylates are in it, this is really one yummy, stunningly gorgeous, buttery-smooth, creamy sweet tuberose blend I've come to adore. I can't spritz this one directly from the bottle or I know people around me will gasp for air; instead, I decant this heady, potent juice into a glass vial and dab in tiny dots on just two or three points. There's a trace of coconut in this blend that gives it a milky, almost vanillic warmth and it takes me back to summertime. If I didn't have to be so fickle, I think I could call it a signature scent.

The fragrance was composed by perfumer Dominique Ropion whose other heady white floral (jasmine or tuberose-gardenia) themed works such as Une Fleur de Cassie and Amarige I have also worn and loved. They say Americans particularly love gardenia--whether this is meant to be far from a compliment or not, there might be a familiarity factor involved with my loving this type of scent. Still, Carnal Flower is top notch qualitywise and stands on its own as a unique and memorable composition. OK, it obviously follows in Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle's footsteps, but thankfully, it doesn't smell like tuberose + pure wintergreen as its predecessor does.

Les Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower (2005)
Basenotes lists the following notes:
Bergamot, Melon, Eucalyptus, Ylang Ylang, Salycilates, Jasmine, Tuberose absolute, Orange Blossom absolute Coconut,White Musks


Thursday, September 27, 2007

DJ Blue of NYC Lounge Is Back On Air!

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DJBlue, who's been spinning my songs from PINK MANHATTAN is going back on the air! The show information is as follows (and is subject to change):

Station: Blue Radio
Shoutcast page:
Broadcast page:
Days: Weekdays
Time: 9pm-Midnight (EST) (New York City)
DJ: DJBlue
Show: NYC Lounge
Content: Independent and Small-Label Artists
Rock, Alternative, Rap, Hiphop, Country, Blues, R&B, etc.
email Address:

Message to Sali from DJ Blue: "I'll be on vacation from 10/3-10/11, and will not be doing shows those nights. When I return, shows will start again, and I will start looking for DJs, a web-designer, etceteras. Please pass the word around, especially to your fans. Let's have some fun and play some great music – yours!"

Thank you all for your continued support!

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

La Chasse aux Papillons LE

I'm sorry I only have a partial view of the original limited edition La Chasse aux Papillons 9.9 fl. oz. bottle circa 1999 to share, but here it is--it's the same bottle as the other LE scents in the L'Artisan Parfumeur line, only with pale pink flowers (which you can't see in the pic for they have fallen off from frequent usage) and leaves around the neck. The actual color of the frosted bottle is a light green. I've recently tried the newer bottle of La Chasse aux Papillons I have in a spray bottle, and I can honestly say it's not the same scent as the one in my first bottle.

The original juice, which I've been wearing a lot this week, and which I've worn so often it's been my staple fragrance for the past 8 years, is much more citrusy, like 4711, with prominent orange blossom. The newer one is also pretty, and I can wear it, but it smells synthetic in comparison, a bit like Beyond Paradise or another mainstream tuberose fragrance, with very little of the sparkling citrus top notes. I wish I could get more of the LE but I think when this is finished up, that's it--there's no more to be found anywhere. I hope one day, I'll find something else I'll equally love, but it seems hard to find such a lovely white floral scent that's so delicate and versatile.

La Chasse aux Papillons, or "chasing butterflies", is my favorite joyous scent! It may be more spring-summerlike than autumnal but I think it feels perfect right now.

Notes: Linden blossom, lemon tree blossom, orange blossom, jasmine, tuberose

The Best and Worst Within One Fragrance Line

My apologies go out in advance to anyone who likes this scent I'm about to disrespect. I realize the love of scent is like our taste in foods--it's subjective and we're all allowed to not like something. I won't be offended if you don't like some of my faves. Has anyone ever found a true love and a truly awful nightmare of a scent within one fragrance line? This is the story of me and Serge Lutens. I love Vetiver Oriental and Fumerie Turque but I don't think Miel de Bois (wood honey) will ever be an acquired taste for me.

I have never thrown away a sample but when this one came as an extra with my package of a full bottle of another Serge Lutens perfume, I couldn't believe how foul the box smelled when I opened it. The stench seeped through the little baggie it was in and permeated everything inside the box. I have quaratined samples I didn't like in separate plastic bags to send off to perfumistas who wanted them, but this time, I couldn't stand to have it in the house at all. All I can say is, there is no perfume I've ever smelled--not the Tom Ford scents, not Knowing, Jacinthe des Bois, Bluebell nor L'Air du Temps--nothing that ever smelled this foul to me. It goes beyond my usual description of scents I dislike as being like a "public telephone receiver". It's like the smell of a body that has not been washed for weeks, maybe months or years--not that I ever want to joke about such a thing because that is cruel--but I'm not joking and surely this has to be my ultimate nightmare perfume.

Burberry Brit Red

Brit Red gets raves when I wear it, and I think I might have to get a bottle of this limited edition before it's gone forever . It's a bit hypersweet and patchouli-heavy for me for most days, but the counterpoint between sharp, tart fruits and caramelly sweetness with spices feels like it would be just right on a warm fall evening during Indian summer. As it turns out, it's been hot in NY (86F today)--not quite autumnal just yet. If you like a good, peppy mix of Fruity Floral and Gourmand, I think Brit Red is among the best of the genre.

Notes on Now Smell This blog:
Burberry Brit Red (2004)--green mandarin, rhubarb, gingerbread, jasmine, rose, vanilla, patchouli, benzoin, sandalwood and vanilla bean

Monday, September 24, 2007

Sali Oguri Persephone Perfume Review By Marian Bendeth

Sali Oguri--Persephone

"Upon first sniff I envision myself seated at a sumptuous patisserie, table for one.

"The waiter wheels in a dessert cart. Upon first sniff, I envision a massive magnolia blossom, it's fantail petals emanating warm sweet notes. Playful whiffs of hyacinth and Royal Purple flowers peak and rise through the waxy petals.

"Underneath, is a cauldron of sumptuous notes. Creme de Cassis, and pomegranate caramelize melted dark chocolate which is caped in a thin veil of sandalwood and amber. The base is almost honeycombed, revealing the gourmand notes that flame and envelop the initial white sweetness." --Marian Bendeth, Global Fragrance Expert, Sixth Scents

Visit Marian on My Space!

For more info on purchasing Persephone Perfume by Sali Oguri, visit WUJ Productions.

Friday, September 21, 2007

Panthère de Cartier

Panthère is a Floral Oriental (ambery) perfume, and it has been a longstanding favorite of mine for a few years. It is slightly on the old-fashioned floral side, but it's balanced well with other elements. Frilly it's not, but it's warm, bodacious and boldly confident. I don't wear it regularly but I save the parfum for special occasions. It's sweet and dry, woodsy and ambery with hints of elegant fruits and a white floral heart. I've always been complimented on how gorgeous I smell every time I've worn it, so it works with my chemistry. I don't know if the parfum is still in production, and it would be a shame if it has been discontinued. If warm, classy, sophisticated ambery perfumes such as Boucheron, Jil Sander No.4, Frapin 1270 or Chanel Coco appeal to you, you might like this, too. I don't know anyone else who wears it, and it's nice to be asked what it is so I could say "Panthère"--a seductive name for a seductive fragrance.

Jan Moran's notes:
Cartier Panthère (1988, Floral - Ambery)
Top Notes: Ginger, pepper, black currant bud, peach, coriander, plum
Heart Notes: Jasmine, narcissus, rose, tuberose, gardenia, heliotrope, carnation, ylang-ylang
Base Notes: Musk, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, oakmoss, cedarwood, vanilla, tonka bean

Jan Moran says, "Panthère eau de toilette is a lighter, fresher version of the perfume, with additional top notes of lemon, mandarin, and grapefruit, while lily of the valley lightens the heart note."

(Image: Vintage refillable Panthère de Cartier eau de toilette spray,

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Thank Yous: DJ Russ, DJ Eyebee and DJ Blue of North American Broadcasting (NAB Radio)

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What an eclectic, soulful and all around excellent radio station this is. It's no wonder they're kicking FM to the dirt. The DJs are great personalities: sincere, articulate and funny, everyone bringing their own flavors to the smorgasbord table. What ties them all together under the NAB banner is that each and every show has been cutting edge, savory and unforgettable. Many thanks to NAB founder DJ Russ who played "All Dressed Up" on his show tonight, and DJ Eyebee who played "Before We Say Goodnight". DJ Blue's NYC Lounge is up--listen now by clicking HERE.

Listen to Sali Oguri All Week On NAB Radio (North American Broadcasting)!

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Listen to New York based Modern Pop Rock singer-songwriter Sali Oguri's hot/ cool/ sweet & sensuous tracks from Pink Manhattan CD all week on NAB (North American Broadcasting) Radio: DJ Blue's NYC Lounge, now Monday through Friday from 11pm to 2am Eastern Time, DJ Eyebee on Wednesdays @ 7pm.

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Parfums des Beaux Arts--Celadon: A Velvet Green

If Vetiver Oriental is a passion of yours like it is mine, and you'd like something a little lighter, this is the ultimate choice. Colorado-based independent perfumer / certified aromatherapist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has created a stunning perfume this year called Celadon: A Velvet Green, part of her color series in the Limited Editions Parfums des Beaux Arts line. It's soft, sweet, lush and warm, like the promise of a new spring morning. I find it very easy to wear and versatile for all seasons and occasions. It's also comforting, slightly vanillic-powdery with just a touch of sophistication--earthy green but clear, cool and collected, like the color that inspired the scent. Visit

Parfums des Beaux Arts Celadon: A Velvet Green (2007)
Budding. Plush. Tender.

Top notes: Clover Leaf, Cucumber, Lime Peel
Middle notes: Green Grass, Liatrix, Orris, Orris Root
Base notes: Balsam Fir, Hay absolute, Narcissus Absolute, Tonka Bean, Violet Leaf Absolute

(Image: “Spring Veil” by Helen Frankenthale, the painting that inspired Dawn in creating Celadon: A Velvet Green,

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Fred Kimmel "Namida No View Finder" Gets Airplay On NAB Radio

Fred Kimmel a.k.a. "Wuj" is on regular rotation on DJ Blue's NYC Lounge. Listen to NAB (North American Broadcasting) Radio, Tuesday through Friday from Midnight to 2am Eastern Time. Tonight, DJ Blue played "Riverflow" and "Namida No View Finder" featuring Sali Oguri, keeping the airwaves sizzling hot!

More News: "Namida No View Finder" is back on the Modern Rock Top 10 chart on Broadjam. Click here to check the current standings!

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Happy Rosh Hashana

L'Shana Tova!

(Image: Shoichi Akutsu "Pomegranate On Glass",

Friday, September 07, 2007

Sali Oguri's Songs From Pink Manhattan CD Are Receiving Frequent Airplay On NAB Radio!

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Listen to New York based Modern Pop Rock singer-songwriter Sali Oguri's hot tracks "Private Dreams", "Come On Up", "Infinite Tenderness" and "Sometimes" on DJ Blue's NYC Lounge on NAB (North American Broadcasting) Radio, Tuesday through Friday from Midnight to 2am Eastern Time.

Thank you for your continued support!

Wednesday, September 05, 2007

Carl T. Smith of Plays Sali Oguri Every Day!

I'm thrilled to share that "All Dressed Up With No Place To Go" and "Before We Say Goodnight (Theme For New Yorkers)" have been receiving loads of airplay on for over a year now (thank you, Carl!). Today, learned that he's playing my tracks every day! Wow!! Check out TSO1 Web Radio, short for The Smooth1 Web Radio, a noncommercial web cast dedicated to streaming original music. Thank you, Carl T. Smith and all my listeners who have been supporting me!


Sali Oguri Pink Manhattan PURRFUME Is Coming Back

Due to popular demand, Sali Oguri's limited edition original perfume, Pink Manhattan PURRFUME, is coming back soon. Please stay tuned for updates!

Check out Pink Manhattan, the CD: Listen or Buy Now!

DJ Blue of NAB Radio Is Playing Sali Oguri Songs All Week!

Listen to New York based Modern Pop Rock singer-songwriter Sali Oguri's hot tracks "Private Dreams", "Come On Up", "Infinite Tenderness" and "Sometimes" on DJ Blue's NYC Lounge on NAB (North American Broadcasting) Radio, Tuesday through Friday from Midnight to 2am Eastern Time.

Tonight, DJ Blue played all 4 songs almost back-to-back! Thank you, DJ Blue and all of our listeners!!


Tuesday, September 04, 2007

Skinny Jeans

Dear Elle magazine,

I'm not saying everyone should look like a twig and fit into these, but I don't appreciate the stereotype that anyone who wears these must be "still bemoaning the closing of CBGB (which I am, thank you very much, and I am sad Hilly Kristal has passed on--not that you care) or under the age of 15". First of all, CBGB was never about fashion. Secondly, I like sweet scents and skinny jeans, and I'm running out to get a pair right now just for the fun of ignoring you.

Furthermore, I think most of this fall's fashion is ugly. Classicism is back and so are gaudy bags and jewelry. '40s/'60s fashion = conservative '50s included. It's the stuff that drove Edie mad. Twigs are out but busty cleavages and tightened waistlines are in--how feminist is that? High-waisted jeans make behinds look even bigger, making the hourglass figure the next coveted body type. Didn't Rita Hayworth pull out some ribs to get that look?

I understand most women can't wear skinnies. So, go rock the wide legs and high waists and leave the skinnies to those of us who can still wear clothes for 15-year-olds and not look stupid. Please stop with the one-or-the-other competitive crap. There are many body types and all women are beautiful.

White-eyed and Disillusioned,

Vétiver Oriental

Oh dear, I'm smitten again, and it had to be another Paris exclusive Serge Lutens. I could just go for the small size available for a limited time at Aedes and Beautyhabit, but I want the bell jar so badly, which is terrible because I just got Fumerie Turque. Can't a woman have two Serge Lutens babies, though? Can't she love them equally? Vetiver Oriental is the cooler, calmer scent--at first aloof, intellectual, earthy and green, but with a gentle gourmand kick adding a deeper, warmer, more mysterious, sultry dimension.

I see chocolate listed as a note, but I don't think it smells like chocolate at all. It's more woody and vanillic to me--an Oriental with a natural, thick forest-type of fresh, green sensation. It has oomph yet it's subtle; yeah, I like that it's neither here nor there but everywhere--a minx of a blend. I love that it can't be pinned down to a definitive archetype but that it stands on its own as a unique and stellar vetiver composition. If Fumerie Turque is the scent I turn to when I'm feeling intense, Vetiver Oriental is the scent for my slightly detached, sophisticated mood.

Top: Sap notes, Padilla iris, undergrowth notes
Heart: Vetiver root, gaiac wood, woody-accord, chocolate
Base: Musk, ambered mosses, sandalwood, rockrose labdanum


Monday, September 03, 2007

Sisley Eau du Soir

I'm braving the rose and wearing Eau du Soir, a dry, bold Floral Chypre that smells so decadently perfumy, I think it's best reserved for someplace where they serve alcoholic drinks in stemmy glasses with monogrammed napkins but not actual food, since the perfuminess seems to clash with any delicious smells in the air. It's a powerful, unsweet scent that's not powdery soft but edgy, yet traditional and familiar. It cuts through anything it's so strong, but it creates a gorgeous, sophisticated aura of good breeding and exquisite taste.

At worst, I'd say this perfume smells like a ladies' leather handbag (think Fendi, Halston, Diva, Agent Provocateur only green--like YSL Y on white musk); at best, it's a sublimely refined classical composition that can make me feel like a million bucks. If you look at the bottle with the sculptural cap with 24-carat gold overlay, you'll see it's marketed to those who want to personify liquid gold. I couldn't possibly always want to smell this serious, but if I ever had to work a powersuit (and I was the boss) or attend a formal gala wearing a sumptuous gown, I might choose it before anything else. A perfume this in-your-face can be a real confidence-booster--and confidence is both empowering and downright sexy. A little goes a long way with this scent.


Sunday, September 02, 2007

Sali Oguri Is Getting Airplay On NAB Radio!

Listen to New York based Modern Pop Rock singer-songwriter Sali Oguri's hot tracks "Private Dreams", "Come On Up" and "Sometimes" on DJ Blue's NYC Lounge on NAB (North American Broadcasting) Radio, Tuesday through Friday from Midnight to 2am Eastern Time.


Sali Oguri Pink Manhattan CD Now Available On Mar Creation

Link to shop!

No More Roses

When an aversion to a specific note suddenly develops, I don't know what to make of it. September rolled in and I can't wear rose scents at all, unless the rose is very well-hidden. I can't wear rose musks and soliflores. Annick Goutal Ce Soir ou Jamais and even fruity blends like Petite Cherie get on my nerves. I'm also having a hard time wearing rose combined with heavy woods, maybe cedar, moss and patchouli in particular. I think I'm also getting sensitive to certain aldehydes--I can't tolerate Chanel No.22 and Etat Libre d'Orange Vraie Blond. Testing Amouage Dia the other day made me feel nauseous. All of these contain fair amounts of rose. I thought I'd wear a chypre scent today and Eau du Soir sounded like a good idea--until I detected rose. It's ironic that in the Roman year of completion, I have begun to find roses close to being abominable. Just seeing the word "rose" makes me feel uneasy.

It's strange because I'm still attracted to the idea of roses at the same time. I plan to retest Hermes Rouge, a rose incense blend that wears like smoky, animalic velvet. I want to wear rose which, incidentally is the New York State flower, but maybe somehow it doesn't fit who I am anymore. I used to be a Nahema woman. The queen of flowers is so powerful, it seems to take over everything it touches. I look back on my earlier posts and wonder how I could have worn Caron Rose and N'Aimez que Moi. I see my neglected bottles of Agent Provocateur, Cabaret, Penhaligon's Elisabethan Rose and Rose d'Ete, and think it's a shame I can't love them back because I used to wear them so well. I was going to write about Estee Lauder Private Collection and Pierre Balmain Ivoire this month to focus on some of my favorite green chypres alongside Eau du Soir, but I just can't put them on my skin, and they're not even that rosy.

There must be one rose I could still wear, but I haven't even been in the mood for my all time favorite rose blends like L'Heure Bleue and Fumerie Turque. Instead, I'm wearing the cooler, earthier and less floral Vetiver Oriental--the one I think smells like sweet rubber tires. Now, that, I seem to enjoy.