Wednesday, January 09, 2008

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême

I'm so glad there are online fragrance reviews because opinions like how close this scent is to another one I love (and already own) are pearls of wisdom. My obsession with Chanel Les Exclusifs No.18 continues, but it brings me to this post about L'Artisan Parfumeur Mûre et Musc Extrême (the stronger version of Mûre et Musc). When my small decant of No.18 ran out, my bottle of Mûre et Musc Extrême came in handy to tide me over. If I took away from No.18 all of the hot, spicy stimulating effect as well as the rosy heart and all the sour, cumin-like spices, I think it could very well be Mûre et Musc Extrême, a warm and sweet berry musk with a slightly unwashed armpitty BO scent. There's a high-pitched, cool top note that's more apparent in Mûre et Musc Extrême, but I get some of that in the dry down stage of No.18, too. I wonder now if the musk in Mure et Musc is musk ambrette (based on the ambrette seed; ambrettolide?).

I've tried other scents with ambrette listed in the notes but they sometimes have a medicinal smell I can't tolerate. Mûre et Musc Extrême is musky but mild, a clean type of musk without being obnoxious in any way. I'd always enjoyed this scent during warmer seasons but it turns out it's pleasurable any time of year. It's the scent that made me fall in love with blackberry in perfume. I believe it to be a Fruity classic: sweet yet elegantly tailored, passionate but streamlined and no fancy, high-minded abstraction here--it is true-to-life berrylike as its name suggests. L'Artisan Parfumeur is known for using natural ingredients and I find their blackberry note particularly easy to wear. It's simply one of the best scents in the L'Artisan line and my favorite of the berry-based musks.