Monday, March 17, 2008

Estée Lauder Estée

I was wrong about Revlon Charlie being the first to feature a model wearing a pantsuit in a perfume ad. Behold, this cool, space-age mod advertisement (hello, Princess Leia) of Estée Lauder Estée (1968). Here's the story behind the discovery of this scent: believe it or not, I once mistook it for Creed Spring Flower at a rock club! I don't remember if I was there at the club to perform or to hear another band, but I remember the fresh, lively floral scent with a green breezy quality, and how beautiful I thought it smelled in the otherwise sweaty, boozy air. When a woman came over to say hello to us, I knew it was her perfume, so I asked her what it was. To my delight and gratitude, she shared it with me; she bashfully whispered it was "an old perfume she's been wearing forever, named Estée". I thanked her and told her I thought it was beautiful and fresh-smelling, and I wanted to get some for myself. She was so happy to hear that. It turned out she was there to support her sons in a band that was performing that night. She looked dynamite--I never would have guessed she wasn't there to perform herself.

When I got a generous decant of it from a perffriend of mine, I was surprised to find the scent in the bottle spicier than it came across in the sillage. It actually smelled a lot like Aliage but more floral, but still rather green and mossy, soft and deep, like a forest floor. I'm not sure it smelled half as lovely on me as it did on the woman at the club, but I think Estée is one of those classic Floral perfumes that will always be appreciated by perfumistas in-the-know. It's a well-made, wonderfully balanced composition, like a Spring fragrance with just a hint of classical Chypre elements (mostly due to the abundance of oakmoss) and a dash of spice as if to point out it's a distant relative of Youth Dew (but I wouldn't compare it to Youth Dew--Estée is much lighter and springier than that).

Notes on
In this signature scent, introduced in 1968, notes of jasmine, rose and ylang-ylang create a fragrance that is classically feminine and sweetly floral. This warmth is balanced by the surprising sparkle of raspberry, peach and citrus oils.

Fragrance Type: Floral/Warm

Top Notes: Jasmine, Rose, Muguet
Middle Notes: Coriander, Ylang-Ylang, Orris
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Moss

(I wonder where the fruity notes are in this list of notes...)

Here are additional notes listed by Jan Moran that put what I initially smelled into perspective:
Estée Lauder Estée (1968 Floral)
Top Notes: Peach, raspberry, citrus oils
Heart Notes: Rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, carnation, ylang-ylang, honey, orris
Base Notes: Cedarwood, musk, moss, sandalwood, styrax

Related links:
Christian Dior Diorella - January 05, 2013
Revlon Charlie - February 27, 2008