Monday, May 19, 2008

Guerlain Cuir Beluga

I'm obsessed with Cuir Beluga. I've already posted my thoughts below (which are in a nutshell that it's a spicy-sweet Gourmand super refined-powdery-ambery scent with not much leather even though it's listed as a leathery Chypre Floral), so I'll just add that tonight, I was reminded of Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque, another leather-vanilla-amber with spicy accents, probably my favorite in the Serge Lutens line. Now, I don't know which of these leathers I prefer. Cuir Beluga is part of Guerlain's L’Art et la Matière collection, hard-to-get unless you have access to the few stores that carry it including the Guerlain flagship in Paris and Bergdorf Goodman here in NY. I think I'm going to have to get this one eventually, but I wish it didn't come in the bottle with the pump atomizer as this type of bottle tends to leak and evaporate. (Edited to add) I've just been informed by a knowledgable perfumista not to worry; it comes with a screw cap.

I've tried the others in the L’Art colleciton and Cuir Beluga is the only one that impressed me, and it's up there among my favorite Guerlain fragrances to date. It smells absolutely like a Guerlain creation, not far away from Shalimar or Vol de Nuit. Many thanks to Olivier Polge for this stunning new creation, a delicate leather Chypre even a Gourmand loving modern perfumista could warm up to!

Notes on Now Smell This:
Guerlain Cuir Beluga (2005 Chypre): mandarin orange, immortelle flower, leather, amber, heliotrope and vanilla.

Also visit Tangled Up In L'Heure Bleue by d.chedwick bryant for a brilliant review and explanation of this scent and the connection to belugas.
Notes on Tangled Up In L'Heure Bleue:
Everlasting Flower, Heliotrope, A 'White Leather' Quinoline, Mandarin Orange Zest, Amber, Musk, and Vanilla.

(Image: lecritiquedeparfum.blogspot.com)