Thursday, May 15, 2008

Hermès Équipage

Hermès Équipage for Men (1970) is classified as Fougère, and I think I have to redefine what that means in my head, because when I hear Fougère, I think of Cool Water, Brut and Jicky. I forget that Fougères can range from light to heavy, powdery to transparent, sporty to elegant, that they can be as varied as any other fragrance family. Équipage smells like a tobacco-leather Chypre scent to me but the notes I've found haven't included these notes. I like this scent very much as it reminds me of Jean Patou Cocktail (1930), a dry Fruity Chypre with crisp lavender over floral-woods. I would describe Équipage as a spicy but dry, somewhat heavy wooded scent softened by florals and moss. The refined finish of these two scents are very similar on my skin, a little bit boozy and animalic, but the spicy carnation beginning in Équipage is very prominent and reminds me of Opium or Old Spice until that spiciness mellows towards the dry down. I can't see too many men being able to pull off such an elegant scent but this is a real gem of a find in men's fragrances. It was created by Guy Robert who also composed Calèche, Doblis, Madame Rochas, Mary Quant Havoc and Amouage Gold.