Saturday, May 31, 2008

Molinard de Molinard

Molinard de Molinard by the renowned perfumerie based in Grasse, the center of perfumery, is a classic white floral (categorized as Fruity Floral by Jan Moran) launched in 1980. It's voluptuous, heady, sweet and richly floral, green (fresh-grassy-herbaceous, mossy and slightly weedy due to vetiver base) and luxurious with an ambery incense base. It remains Floral and doesn't veer into the Sweet (Oriental) family being light on the base notes. The smoky ending is unexpected and suggestive, putting Molinard de Molinard in the company of other intoxicating bombshell white florals such as Caron Narcisse Noir.

The mossiness combined with a richly floral heart might convey a rather retro feeling for some, but there's no doubt this is a beautiful fragrance of fine quality. Lively fruits round out the blend; the fresh greenery cuts through the sweetness, giving it much needed lift. For comparison, I often think of it as a more full-bodied version of Pierre Balmain Ivoire (1979). Molinard de Molinard is a well-composed creation hailing from the no holds barred '80s--a star perfume with pedigree.
I'm not sure if the new M de Molinard described as a floral green scent is the same fragrance, but I have a feeling it is. If so, the original version Molinard de Molinard in the reissued 1929 Lalique nudes bottle is a marvelous deal.

Notes according to Jan Moran:
Molinard de Molinard (1980 Floral - Fruity)
Top Notes: Fruits, citrus, black currant bud, greens
Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, narcissus, ylang-ylang
Base Notes: Amber, Reunion Island vetiver, incense