Sunday, September 07, 2008

Heeley Iris de Nuit

I haven't fallen in love with an iris-focused perfume in a long while, if you can even count Paco Rabanne Metal or Calandre as iris perfumes. Heeley Iris de Nuit is actually much more of an iris soliflore than my favorite perfumes with iris in the mix. Many iris perfumes I've tested have been too frou frou flowery, spicy or vegetal (smelling of wet carrots and dirt), but Iris de Nuit, while being a bit on the coarse side (think of Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie or L'Artisan Orchidee Blanche) is a very wearable, clean iris. It is a bit powdery but the coarseness gives it a fresh appeal, similar to the effect of a white tea fragrance (in fact, White Tea would be a good alternative). In many ways, Iris de Nuit reminds me of the cedary-musky base notes in Creed Spring Flower, or the base in Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue with ambrette musk instead of white musk. I find it unique and sophiticated, a non-flowery floral that's refreshingly stark.