Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Straight to Heaven by Kilian

Straight to Heaven by Kilian has been referred to as "White Cristal" by Marian Bendeth. When I visited the Kilian website, I realized "white cristal" is part of the story, as Love by Kilian is "don't be shy". I think I like White Cristal as a perfume name better than Straight to Heaven but either way, wow, it's wonderful stuff. When I got my Kilian samples, I wish I'd investigated this one more in depth. I opted to try Love first, then eventually Cruel Intentions and a few others, and didn't give this sample much thought (perhaps I didn't care for the muskiness at first), but oh, what a scent this is. It's musky and animalic but not in the Helmut Lang or Kiehl's Musk "dirty feet" way. This masterpiece wears like a subtle (yet heavy) skin scent, walking the thin line between innocent and devilish as only a misogynistic, manmade image of a perfect woman could. It has patchouli in the mix but I hardly detect it; likewise the white musk stays in the distance, hardly detectable, and instead, I get smooth Brazilian rosewood, cedar (I'm into cedar these days), rum, yet not a whole lot of booziness, more incensey woodsy tones and just enough spices to tantalize and not so much they overwhelm. The animalic aspect I believe mostly comes from the ambergris, and it lasts a long time on skin.

Overall, it's a semi-sweet, deep musk creation with an ethereal feeling to it. It's enigmatic and hard to explain but it's definitely my favorite composition in the Kilian line. For comparison, I think it shares with Cruel Intentions the deep, musky, animalic feeling, but Cruel Intentions is the spicier and heavier of the two. Still, Straight to Heaven is no wallflower with its bold character and extroverted sillage. This scent doesn't speak a whole lot (not a negative - just my way of saying it's sort of minimalist and chic in its effect) but when it does, it has a fairly loud and straightforward tone, making its point directly and firmly. Wild but not too wild and more serious than nonsensical, Straight to Heaven to me is in essence two words: well-trained musk. The sweet, yummy notes are a delightful bonus making it all the more intoxicating. There is patchouli in it but I would categorize it as Oriental rather than Chypre. (Edited to add) I smell the boozy rum note clearly in the dry down now. I was told I smelled a little like coconut, so Kilian's description of it being a hot Caribbean scent makes more sense now.

Notes from Lucky Scent:
Straight to Heaven by Kilian: Martinican rum absolute, dried fruits accord, Javanese nutmeg oil, hedione, cedarwood, Indonesian patchouli oil, ambergris, vanilla absolute, white musk