Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Thank You, Adieu, and my 2009 Year End Top 10!


White Rose mandala

Season's Greetings with love from Pink Manhattan! I'd like to thank my music fans, perfume customers and blog readers for all of your kind support over the years. Pink Manhattan Purrfume will be available for purchase until Dec. 31, 2009 (all remaining orders will be shipped on Jan. 4, 2010). After Dec. 31, I'm taking another hiatus from perfume making, to focus on music and other ventures in the New Year. I'd like to thank you once again for being part of what has been a truly rewarding experience to have dabbled in the world of fragrance, to have met so many gifted fellow perfume writers and wonderful perfume-loving friends along the way. I've learned so much and I couldn't have done it without you.

Let's celebrate with you-know-what: my Year End Top 10 List! This was so hard to come up with, since I haven't been wearing any one perfume on any regular basis. I thought I might list my all time favorite perfumes, but that list would go up to 1000 or so. I've decided to stick to my current faves, even if it means something special that I only got to try once but fell madly in love with! Granted, sometimes I fall in love too easily...

1. The one that made my heart ache this year with unrequited love was Guerlain Les Secrets de Sophie. Packaged in a geometric patterned modernized quadrilobe flacon in three color choices, the 60ml limited edition eau de parfum was redolent of sweet white floral essences with a touch of violet. Thank you, Jean-Paul Guerlain, for this beautiful, unforgettable experience.

2. Following Les Secrets de Sophie, I fell in love with Jean Paul Gaultier Classique this year. I don't wear it anymore because the smoky-woody base was too heavy and dirty-powdery, but this was my Sophie stand-in, which was almost as good...while the love lasted. It was one hot summer fling!

3. Givenchy Very Irrésistible is going to remain in my perfume collection forever and ever. This is a gorgeous anisic rose blend with a hint of modern Chypre accord backed up by musk, similar to Narciso Rodriguez for Her and Stella McCartney but for me, the most wearable of the relatively newbie bunch.

4. Then, along came Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame which knocked my socks off! This is a spunky, citric orange blossom. A mod urban cocktail, it doesn't smell too natural but I love it anyway. Natural essences are essential to life but I can appreciate modern perfumery and all its technological advances, as long as I can have the best of both worlds.

5. Penhaligon's Bluebell went from strong dislike to mighty love, which is rare. When it finally won me over, it was the icy green hyacinth that grew on me, even as the wet woods still kind of smelled like the inside of an old wooden house in the quiet countryside.

6. La Prairie Life Threads Gold was the surprise love of the year. It came into my life like kismet, and stole away my attention with its radiant glow of Mediterranean-style Chypre (Fruity) with sweet, spicy, warm and incensey Oriental notes.

7. Acorelle Amande de Ble is a bitter almond and mimosa perfume. It's certified 100% organic, and it smells delish! Natural and organic are the wave of the future!

8. I really like Laura Mercier Almond Coconut but this is more of a bath and body scent. I like it a LOT, though. It's insanely strong so I dab it from a vial with the tip of my wand.

9. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb burst onto the scene with a memorable New York launch and has gone in and out of my life as we got moody with each other. A patchouli-based Gourmand, the roses-and-marshmallows diva perfume seduces with a confident, straightforward & sexy attitude.

10. Chanel N°22, unnaturally perfectly symmetrical, my abstract white rose of choice. "Scientifically" balanced, harmonized till no single note ever stands out, every indiscernable note part of a hazy chorus. Like powdery snow, soft and down-to-earth, it's my "scent of peace", which translates into the real world as my "snuggie-and-a-book light" scent.


Best Launch of the Year: Sophie takes the crown.

Best Packaging: I'm giving the honor to Benefit Crescent Row because the idea was so cute and captivating, plus it took me on an imaginary trip to Bath, England.

Hall of Fame: Caron Nocturnes. Another perfume I'd like to honor this year is Chanel N°19, the first to be awarded the FIFI in 1973 (visit The Fragrance Foundation).

Honorary mentions: Origins Ginger Essence (fresh, spicy and gorgeous), DR Harris Arlington (sheer lemon cream, not sweet, evaporates quickly but smells fantastic), Niki de St. Phalle (minty cool, sexy '80s Chypre-animalic), Paul & Joe Blanc (light floral musk), Diane Von Furstenburg Tatiana (a lot like Serge Lutens A la Nuit, a sharp, voluptuous clean jasmine), Sarah Horowitz Perfect Nectar perfume oil (blood orange + white florals = like juicy papaya): I meant to write about these in more detail this year but didn't get the chance to. Lots to come in 2010! Have a very Happy New Year ~ put on your liveliest, sexiest number, carpe diem and bonne chance!








Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Beautiful Ainu



This is a photo of an Ainu man from The Boone Collection, Image Gallery: Ainu Artifacts, www.fieldmuseum.org. Being Japanese, I am personally very saddened by Japan's history of racism against the Ainu people, the original inhabitants of Japan, the people who are also now thought to be, at least in part, our ancestral heritage (although this is still a controversial topic).


Here's another photo of an Ainu man from the Ainu Museum (image source: BBC). This man actually looks a lot like my grandfather, from the side of my family that tends to be wavy-haired. But I don't have to be Ainu to see myself and many of my own family's faces in these old photographs which I'm grateful to have found online. I'm glad Japan has taken steps to begin the healing process, and I hope to learn more about their beautiful, unique culture.


An Ainu girl with traditional lip tattoo


Related links:

Recognition at last for Japan's Ainu - by Philippa Fogarty, BBC News Friday, 6 June 2008

Japan's Suppression of Ainu Moshiri - Ainu Association of Hokkaido Sapporo, Hokkaido

Who are the Ainu? - www.dumbotaku.com

Ainu bear sacrifice. Japanese painting 1870 - Wikimedia Commons



Parallel Worlds: Art of the Ainu of Hokkaido and Native Americans of the Pacific Northwest



Originally posted on You Tube: "June 6-28, 2009, the Portland Japanese Garden hosted a special exhibition in honor of the 50th anniversary of the sister city relationship between Portland and Sapporo, Japan. Entitled Parallel Worlds, the exhibition featured exquisitely designed traditional ceremonial robes created by Ainu artists from the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido and Native American artists of the Pacific Northwest. This groundbreaking exhibition became the first to juxtapose the textile arts of indigenous cultures on both sides of the north Pacific."

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Swing in New Year’s Eve with Steele Hillier Quartet featuring Sali Oguri @ Light Horse Tavern, Jersey City



Tired of the same old house parties?

Swing in New Year’s Eve at the Light Horse Tavern

199 Washington Street • Jersey City, NJ 07302 • (201) 946-2028

Thursday, December 31, 2009 9:00pm - January 1, 2010 2:00am

Live Music: The Steele Hillier Quartet
With: Noel Sagerman (d), Stefan Teti (p), Sali Oguri (v)

Reserved Dinner Seating Only • Music starts at 9:00 pm

Visit www.lighthorsetavern.com



Saturday, December 26, 2009

Laura Mercier Almond Coconut



Laura Mercier Almond Coconut is a Gourmand comfort scent. I like this but it smells like Diesel Plus Plus Feminine. They're both milk scents, but the coconut might be a little more noticeable in the Laura Mercier. Naomagic comes to mind as well. Try it if you like Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, Kat Von D Saint, Comptoir Sud Pacifique Caramel Sunset or Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison. The hand creme is nice, too.

They also have a Pistachio scent which is similar to Almond Coconut but creamier, and not as warm (the Almond Coconut has a "steamy" (sort of like stepping out of a hot shower) yet "dry" (like towels that came out of a dryer) woody-musk base). Pistachio has a rosy (but the soapy kind) dry down. Both Almond Coconut and Pistachio are pleasant scents for bath & body products, although these Laura Mercier products (also the Creme Brulee) are strongly scented and linger for days. Pistachio isn't available in eau de parfum. Does anyone remember MOR Pistachio? Maybe they had an EDP.

I'm not sure if these new cozy and familiar fragrances will win a FiFi Award for Fragrance of the Year or Technological Breakthrough of the Year, but the flavor and fragrance industry must know a product smelling as innocuously yummy as Milky candies ought to make a mint. I think I'll treat myself to a set, to commemorate 2009 and my adventures in PinkManhattan. To my readers - thanks for being part of it all.



Friday, December 25, 2009

Merry Christmas




(Image: www.gothamcityinsider.com)

Listen to Bach: Cantata, BWV 147, Jesu, Joy of Man's Desiring


Thursday, December 24, 2009

Patent for a Pig



As a powerful corporate giant attempts to patent living genetic material, this film asks what the consequences are for mankind. www.wideeyecinema.com


Some Pig! – Monsanto Seeks Patents on Breeding Herds of Pigs by Brian Thomas Fitzgerald From the August 10, 2005 issue, The Indypendent

Monsanto Pulls GM Corn Amid Food Safety Concerns - 17 November 2009 Robt Mann

Related articles of interest: Codex Alimentarius - posted on Dec. 22, 2009



Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Codex Alimentarius

Codex Alimentarius a Self Fulfilling Prophesy by Rudi C. Loehwing

Will this affect the USA come Dec. 31, 2009? Codex Alimentarius is listed as a hoax on Snopes (last updated: 2005), so we needn't worry about it, except I noticed during the years I've been blogging, that natural ingredients in perfume have suddenly been classified as "allergens" and are currently being controlled. There's more than one false belief going around; another one is that synthetic (chemical) ingredients are more eco-friendly because the earth supposedly can't sustain the harvesting of natural ingredients. Then, there's this Codex Alimentarius, this crazy notion that nutrients are "toxins", that nutrients have no relevance to our health when Science tells us otherwise, and that these, too, will be controlled. All of this doesn't sound too far off from what the fragrance industry is already reporting as the new versions of truth (thanks to the new "eco-friendly", "health conscious" chemical industry). It reminds me of an anonymous message left here once, from someone who said manmade food is the same as natural food because their chemical structures are the same. How easy would it be to convince the majority of people that nutrients and all things of the earth have no value? If this law passes here, it would be nutricide.

How Codex Alimentarius Promotes Pesticides - www.healthfreedomusa.org

Codex Alimentarius — An Emerging Threat - www.vitalitymagazine.com Feb. 2005

"The Codex Guidelines for Vitamin and Mineral Food Supplements, meanwhile, don't actually differentiate between natural and synthetic vitamins and minerals, and explicitly permit both to be used in the manufacture of supplements"...Fact & Fiction on the WTO's Codex Alimentarius, Health Freedom,and Nutritional Supplements , www.organicconsumers.org Jan. 13, 2006

The Growing Threats to DSHEA by Paul Anthony Taylor, September 2005

Discussions on Codex Alimantarius @ Yahoo Answers

The WTO and the FAO/WHO Codex Alimentarius - www.wto.org

IFRA in a nutshell - www.ifraorg.org

New Update on the Alleged Allergens in Essential Oils - by Tony Burfield, August - October 2004

Japan Offspring Fund (JOF) (the old site is here) - www.tabemono.info

Codex Alimentarius (Part 1)—Evil as a Medieval Cabal by Heidi Stevenson 11 May 2009

Codex Alimentarius (Part 2)—Food Defined As A Bunch of Chemicals by Heidi Stevenson, 13 May 2009 Gaia Health

Related articles of interest: Patent for a Pig - As a powerful corporate giant attempts to patent living genetic material, this film asks what the consequences are for mankind.




Monday, December 21, 2009

Happy Winter Solstice!

You're gonna like this: Pet Shop Boys - Love Comes Quickly



Millot Crêpe de Chine



F. Millot Crêpe de Chine was born in 1925, in the same year as Guerlain Shalimar. Had I never smelled Zibeline Secret de Venus (1928), I wouldn't be able to place Crêpe de Chine in this flapper era, but yes, because I know now that this era exemplified leather blends and the elusive parfum fourrure, Crêpe de Chine epitomizes the time period by being among the best of its kind. At first, I thought it resembled Revlon Norell in its muted (not too sweet) yet low-pitched and woody Aldehydic Chypre characteristic. Upon further testing, I can see it also resembles Givenchy III and Chanel Cristalle because of the generous amounts of jasmine and oakmoss combined with citrus oils. I love how the combination of notes create a cool and scintillating Green, herbaceous, foresty Chypre Floral, while all the time being a sophisticated Aldehydic Floral, deep and serious but emotive, animated, almost, though not quite, as radiant as Jean Patou Joy. The overall character reminds me of some later perfumes, too, such as Alexandra de Markoff Enigma (1972) and the iconic 1947 leather (animalic) Chypre Floral, Miss Dior.

Based on the distinctively mossy dry down, it seems Crêpe de Chine was in some way inspired by Guerlain Mitsouko (1919), which in turn was inspired by Coty Chypre (1917). They all smell like that dark green, mossy and autumnal, nutty or spice cake-like, traditional Chypre scent from the early 20th century, but to me, Crêpe de Chine is the most floral and sweet, even boozy sweet, so honeyed and intoxicating the heart of raw nectar. Among the foresty Chypres, if Aromatics Elixir is the cool and detached, earthy patchouli-laden one, Crêpe de Chine is the perfumey (very opulent, like Caron Parfum Sacre) bombshell with a dramatic flair, competing with Shalimar and Replique, even with Batsheba herself for the attentions of King David.


Coty Chypre ad: note the similarity of the sunbeams streaming down in tiers from the sky.

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Lanvin My Sin



I'm amazed by how sweet and floral My Sin is. I expected something more sharp and spicy, woody and aldehydic, like Arpege, but I see now that the concentration of aldehyde was very shy compared to post-Chanel No.5 perfumes. That could explain why Caron Infini (originally launched in 1912), an Aldehydic Floral, is still not considered the first of its kind. It probably smelled closer to My Sin than No.5. My Sin smells like these little obscure French perfumes I got on eBay, with names like Cinq à Sept, Air France, many by R. Vernay. Most of these are very sweet floral blends, with lots of tuberose, but made complex, like Beautiful with Chypre and Oriental elements or, like Replique, some without the spices but with all the vavoom. Gorgeous. They smell like perfumes once did, opulent with everything but the kitchen sink, maybe before people tried to so rigidly classify them, and even separate the genres as they do so consciously and artificially now. Maybe perfumes back then were just...more, without fear of being more.

My Sin is to me, like a voluptuous and dazzling Givenchy III or Cristalle EDP (plenty of oakmoss here), crossed with a very rich floral like Jardins de Bagatelle or Gianfranco Ferre and of course an aldehyde perfume, maybe a weak Bois des Iles...Carol's Daughter Pearls and Etat Libre d'Orange Vraie Blonde come to mind, but My Sin is even less aldehydic (granted, this is vintage, and the aldehydes could have faded...but the floral ingredients are still powerful, maybe thanks to a good deal of animal-derived musk). I imagine this is a parfum fourrure, rich and powerful enough for cold weather like in Russia, where they say Madame Zed, the mysterious perfumer without a full name, came from. All that's to say, it's a strong perfume. Florals don't all have to be dainty or sharp. They can be languid, sweet and yet intense, like jewel-toned hand-beaded velvet brocade: traditional frou-frou with intricate patterns to weave an aura of mystery. My Sin, like the lovable black cat of superstitious fame, is really just a nice woman next door, no crime against society or humanity.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Miles Davis - Stella by Starlight




MILES DAVIS / 1958 MILES Miles Davis(tp) John Coltrane(ts) Cannonball Adderley(as) Bill Evans(p) Paul Chambers(b) Jimmy Cobb(ds)



Wynton Marsalis - Caravan




A young Wynton Marsalis playing the classic "Caravan" 1988
(Visit You Tube)



Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Sinti and Roma (Gypsy) People of Europe

"Today, with the rise of strident nationalism in many of the eastern European nations and unemployment throughout Europe, Sinti and Roma continue to face widespread public prejudices and official discrimination."...Sinti and Roma ("Gypsies"): Victims of the Nazi Era - Holocaust Teacher Resource Center

"The English term Gypsy (or Gipsy) originates from the Greek word Αιγύπτοι (Aigyptoi, whence modern Greek γύφτοι gifti), in the erroneous belief that the Romanies originated in Egypt, and were exiled as punishment for allegedly harboring the infant Jesus." - Romani people, Wikipedia, also at Roma People - Gypsies - Crystalinks

"Romani social behavior is strictly regulated by Hindu purity laws ("marime" or "marhime"), still respected by most Roma (and by most older generations of Sinti)." - Romani people, Wikipedia

"Language: Most Romanies speak one of several dialects of Romani, an Indo-Aryan language." See Indo-Aryan languages on Wiki

"Europe will never again see colourful Gypsy caravans, hear their rhapsodic music or listen to their awesome tales....": Roma and Sinti - Music During the Holocaust


Related links:

The definition of Aryan - Wiki

As opposed to Arian with an "i": Arian controversy (also see Arianism) - Wiki

Graeco-Aryan



Seal of Solomon



Image: Star of Bethlehem astrological chart
www.templeofsolomon.org


Just about one year ago, I'd commented on a theory I came across, that the Bible could very well be an Astrological Allegory (see my Dec. 14, 2008 post). Recently, I'd come across info about the history of Japan and how in 6 CE the country and the consciousness of the people were reformed by replacing the indiginous practice of pagan Shamanistic-animist (definition number 1 at Merriam-Webster) (shinto) beliefs with Buddhism as the new national religion (alongside a newly organized Shinto religion as well), creating Imperial Japan, the land of the rising sun. Since then, I've realized that so many significant world-changing events took place around the same time as the birth of early Christianity. Here are some links related to religious and cultural phenomena all occuring within the same time period, roughly around 5 BCE - 5 CE.

Real Star of Bethlehem - see what the Magi saw, astrology ...

The Bible and the Zodiac by Donna L. Preble, www.theosociety.org

The Unspoken Bible - www.usbible.com


More related links:
Star of David blog

Art, Astrology, Alchemy and the Mystical Star of David by John LeKay, www.heyokamagazine.com

I think it's far-fetched to say the Japanese are a lost tribe of Israel, but nevertheless, there are significant cultural ties here: Israelites Came to Ancient Japan - www5.ocn.ne.jp

Star of David around the world: Star of David or Star of Goloka? by Swami B. G. Narasingha

(It's also of interest to me that the word "azuma" (aduma (pronounced "adzuma") in old Japanese) meaning "east" sounds like the word "azimuth". Does anyone know if there's a connection here? Related link: Japanese Poetry, Wikipedia)


The Story Behind Caron and Perfumer Felicie Vanpouille



Felicie Vanpouille has, until this point, been regarded as a former dressmaker, bottle designer and manager of Caron. I am amazed to learn she was a nose, just as much as Ernest Daltroff, the founder of the company, only we never got to hear the reason why this fact was kept a secret for almost a century.

Please read this fascinating interview of the president of Parfums Caron by Michelyn Camen about the history of the House. The story of the two business partners, lovers and perfumers Ernest Daltroff and Felicie Vanpouille is a truly heartwrenching one, more relevant than ever. Please visit Fragrantica: The House of Caron: Love, War and Perfume by Michelyn Camen, Dec. 13, 2009

Let us read, understand, and never repeat the tragedies and atrocities of our past.


Monday, December 14, 2009

Celebrate New Year's Eve in Jersey City with Steele Hillier and Sali Oguri



This New Year's Eve, come dine at the legendary Light Horse Tavern in Jersey City and spend a memorable evening of masterly melodies from the maestro and his virtuoso troupe - Steele Hillier on bass joined by pianist Steven Teti, Noel Sagerman on drums and guest vocalist Sali Oguri.




Thursday Dec. 31, 2009 - Friday Jan. 1, 2010
Live Music: 9:00 PM - 1:00 AM

New Year's Eve Tasting Dinner
beginning at 10PM with Live Jazz & Vocalist,
a Midnight Champagne Toast,
a Cash Bar after Midnight,
and Dancing into the Early Morning Hours
$75
Black tie optional
Make reservations today
Space is limited

Light Horse Tavern
199 Washington Street, Jersey City
Fine food and drink. Just minutes from the ferry or PATH
TEL: 201-946-2028

Visit www.lighthorsetavern.com





Sunday, December 13, 2009

Caron Pois de Senteur, Acaciosa, Bellodgia



Please stop by Examiner.com for today's featured reviews.

Each time I visit the beautiful, luxurious, ultra-French Parfums Caron boutique here in New York City (currently located at 675 Madison Ave), I have the blessing of being able to try all of the exquisite perfumes (pure parfum aka extrait) in their famous golden Baccarat urns (les parfums fontaine). To have any one of these precious perfumes hand-decanted for you or someone you love is a near-spiritual experience; simply setting foot in the elegant, chandelier-lit space is a memory to treasure. Almost 9 years ago when I first discovered there was more to Caron than Nocturnes (my first love), I had to admit to being baffled by more than a few among their legendary collection. That's because most of them are the untrendy antithesis of the commercial fragrances of today, and somehow, it takes awhile for my nose to adjust to how different they seem. In the end, perfumes are all Perfume, and I sincerely enjoy them all, in the full spectrum of the art form. Caron perfumes are a special kind of enjoyment, since perfumes like these are increasingly rare and on the way to becoming obsolete with new, more economically feasible technological advances pushing the less modern aside.

Today, I'll admit I still have a hard time wrapping my brain around the more obscure fragrances such as Pois de Senteur and Acaciosa, even well-known classics like Bellodgia. These are full-bodied and densely powdery (not transparent scents as modern creations tend to be), old-fashioned scents in the best way possible - bespoke perfumes for the refined perfume lover. They come from a simpler time, when a good perfume depended upon fine ingredients, rife with natural, healing indoles that make us feel good, like resonating to the sound of an acoustic instrument as it's being played, actually feeling the vibrations and the infinite cycle of fifths as the notes reverberate. Such excellence is impossible to fake; quality or lack thereof can be cut and dry for those familiar with raw materials. Few houses can vouch for true quality and artistry as Caron unequivocably can. They've also paved the way for many other fragrance houses to follow in terms of unique perfume compositions - so much so, they were prototypical of many famous modern perfumes of the 20th century.


Pois de Senteur (1927) is a sweet pea fragrance that smells not so much like a sweet pea soliflore but like rich, honeyed powder; nevertheless, I wouldn't call it anything but a pure Floral based on the concentration and volume of notes in the midrange (or heart). It reminds me of Avon Sweet Honesty without the white musk. It can also be thought of as the top half of Farnesiana, perhaps in the same way Narcisse Noir and Narcisse Blanc are supposedly the same except for additional sandalwood in the Noir. Pois de Senteur seems to me just the spicy (almond-like) powdery florals sans heavy, smoldering ambery-sandalwood base. In reality, the two are just aspects of each other, like "night" and "day" are merely aspects of a single whole day, not at all separate things. This angelic cloud smells of crushed, semi-naughty rose petals, a hint of amber and soap (hyacinth, linden, lily of the valley and lilac notes make Pois de Senteur slightly Green on the olfactive spectrum). I find it indolic but not particularly animalic and more like a bouquet settling down to an aromatic potpourri.


Acaciosa (1929) surprises me with the uncanny resemblance to Jean Patou Joy (1930, sometimes listed as a 1929 launch). It's obvious these two perfumes were launched around the same time. Here absolutely is the basic structure of Joy, a perfect union between jasmine and rose, the heart of perfumery in the most traditional sense. In Acaciosa, the sweet, decadent floral profusion is made rounder and almost syrupy-golden with the addition of pineapple. Like Pois de Senteur, it's indolic (and more overtly animalic) but I'd still classify Acaciosa as Floral. It's a bit heavier than Pois de Senteur on the olfactory scale, but an Oriental fragrance to me is Farnesiana, Pois de Senteur's deeper, lower-pitched sister.

Finally, Bellodgia is a fragrance I've neglected to review until now because I felt I couldn't do it justice due to my waxing and waning love of carnation as a focal point in a composition. Never mind my personal taste; Bellodgia deserves recognition for not only being an elegant spicy (I always say carnation smells like cinnamon and clove) Floral (maybe semi-Oriental because of the spice) with a devoted following, but for having set a standard for the carnation perfume: one as soft and downy as a vintage powder puff, with no hard edges, even if carnation is in truth one prickly, firey flower, not nearly as delicate as its reputation. An herbaceous perennial plant native to the Mediterranean, carnation carries religious connotations, particularly connected to ancient Rome. It's also the national flower of Spain. Bellodgia (1927) paved the way for the creation of Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps, a bestselling powdery carnation perfume which followed 20 years later in 1948. I dedicate this article in honor of and appreciation for Caron, established by master perfumer Ernest Daltroff (1867-1941) in 1904. Caron perfumes are ideal for gift-giving. Visit www.parfumscaron.com




Saturday, December 12, 2009

Spend New Year's Eve in Jersey City with pianist Steven Teti and vocalist Sali Oguri





This New Year's Eve, come dine at the legendary Light Horse Tavern in Jersey City and spend a memorable evening of masterly melodies from the maestro and his virtuoso troupe - pianist Steven Teti joined by Steele Hillier on bass, Noel Sagerman on drums and guest vocalist Sali Oguri.

Thursday Dec. 31, 2009 - Friday Jan. 1, 2010
Live Music: 9:00 PM - 1:00 AM

New Year's Eve Tasting Dinner
beginning at 10PM with Live Jazz & Vocalist,
a Midnight Champagne Toast,
a Cash Bar after Midnight,
and Dancing into the Early Morning Hours
$75
Black tie optional
Make reservations today
Space is limited

Light Horse Tavern
199 Washington Street, Jersey City
Fine food and drink. Just minutes from the ferry or PATH
TEL: 201-946-2028

Visit www.lighthorsetavern.com





Friday, December 11, 2009

Orion, the Drum and Three Wise Men



Yowatashi Boshi; Stars that Pass in the Night: Japan's Cultural Heritage Reflected in the Star Lore of Orion - by Steve Renshaw and Saori Ihara, October, 1999

Astronomy in Japan: Science, History, Culture

Read about Orion (constellation) on Wikipedia.


Thursday, December 10, 2009

Penhaligon's Amaranthine



Visit Examiner.com

Penhaligon's Amaranthine has got to be the best thing I've smelled in a long time. I totally get the comparison to Parfum delRae Amoureuse, which, honestly, I think it resembles in both scent and name. Still, the fragrance has a uniqueness of its own, being less floral and lighter than Amoureuse (although it's just as honeyed and indolic, jasmine so fleshy it's animalic), but soapier (aldehydic) and coarse, along the lines of Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie (my favorite Malle, the only bottle of Malle I own). The dry down is a musky sandalwood married to piquant dried fruits, pleasantly aromatic in a natural way, like citrus peel. This is a smoky scent without being churchy or temple incensey at all; the "skin scent" sillage is a cool, woodsy, foresty floral aroma with tart fruits and spices over a dry (like Diptyque Tam Dao dry) base; if the marketing blurb mentions "corrupted flesh", that would be the clean, understated apothecary style of this British line doing their rendition of a complex and elegant French-style perfume: very Gothic, indeed: not a typical bright and sporty scent, more of an acquired taste, its eternal beauty diaphanous but nonetheless charming and bewitching.

There are bottle choices for this awesome fragrance (which in itself is awesome): one appears to be a faceted gem-like bottle, like a royal purple amethyst, with a cute Goth-type silver butterfly on it. I think it's very girly and romantic, with a moon-like round pearly cap adorned by a rock 'n' roll edge (because of the silver metal look), but the other one (pictured) is my preferred design: the simple apothecary style bottle with a grey wool (maybe grosgrain - can't tell) bow - how chic! If we're to obsessive-compulsively microanalyze, I think it's a little tomboyish on the "femininity" spectrum. Thank you, Penhaligon's, for getting beyond the usual male-female binary and giving us more opportunities to choose.

amaranth: (ăm'ə-rănth')
n. An imaginary flower that never fades




Monday, December 07, 2009

Perfumista All-Stars: Sali's New York Winter Holiday



Plum is a personal scent association I have with winter and the holidays, because I always think of "The Nutcracker" Ballet, but also because, being Japanese, winter immediately brings to mind plum blossoms. The imagery of plum petals cascading to the ground like snow is an integral part of my psyche...

Please visit today's article featuring a review of Creed Acqua Fiorentina plus a special winter holiday celebration with fellow perfumista friends! Perfumista All Stars: Sali's New York Winter Holiday



Saturday, December 05, 2009

First Snow

We had our first snowfall of the season today! ~*

Thursday, December 03, 2009

New York Cares Coat Drive



New Yorkers can visit www.newyorkcares.org to find a coat donation site where you can donate your new or gently used coats this December.


Tuesday, December 01, 2009

Ella Fitzgerald - Night and Day




Night and Day (by Cole Porter)

Night and day, you are the one.
Only you beneath the moon or under the sun.
Whether near to me or far,
no matter, darling, where you are,
I think of you night and day.
Day and night, why is it so,
that this longing for you follows wherever I go?
In the roaring traffic's boom,
in the silence of my lonely room,
I think of you night and day.
Night and day, under the hide of me,
there's an oh, such a hungry yearning
burning inside of me.
And its torment won't be through
'til you let me spend my life making love to you
day and night, night and day.


Night and Day



Not all cultures revolve around the sun. If in most world religions and cultures, the romantic pagan myth goes, that the feminine moon goes around chasing after the masculine sun forever in the sky in infatuated form, in Jewish monotheism, there is no binary opposition or contention between the two forces. "Let there be light" - the day was created by the order, which is why the day follows night. This is why Hanukkah starts on the night of the 11th, not the day of the 12th. It's also why the night (or Fri. night and day) before Sunday, the Sabbath, is holy.

I think because women are the choosers of their mates in this life as humans on earth, the Jewish perspective on the cycle of life makes good sense to me.

Day and Night - Jewish Virtual Library, www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org

The Copernican Revival Of The Heliocentric Theory, The Triumph Of The Heliocentric Theory, The Heliocentric Theory And The Universe

Copernican heliocentrism - Wikipedia

The Lunatic Theory - www.wlym.com

Lunarcentricism - Uncyclopedia

Heliocentrism is an atheist doctrine - Blogs 4 Brownback, May 18, 2007

Atheist Heliocentric Conspiracy - Archie's Archive - The Curmudgeon's Magazine, May 26, 2007

Yesterday's Lunacy, Today's Truth - Big Think, www.bigthink.com

(Image: Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers in Gay Divorcee (1934) performing "Night and Day" by Cole Porter (watch the You Yube clip here))



Sunday, November 29, 2009

The Future of Niche

They say the '40s trend is now, but I say it's the '30s, if the retelling of the Joy perfume story in this LA Times article today is an indication. In essence, the current perfume market is favorable to niche because perfumes are products that seem couture without having to spend too much. As the article quotes, "Niche fragrances have experienced double-digit growth this year, according to Grant of the NPD group". It's all thanks to the small, fanatical crowd who follows the scent trend, the perfumistas of the world. It looks to me this small fanatical crowd is about to become the new mainstream in no time at all. The fact that niche perfumes are more accessible to everyone is a great thing; thanks to the niche market, we now have diversity of perfume choices. But alongside perfume appreciation is a growing sense of perfume wearers feeling judged by their choices, conscious or not. So, what do we do about the growing trend towards refinement and aesthetics? Are we ready to confront the side effects of the fanatical obsession with purity of form?

Friday, November 27, 2009

Liza Wade Interviews Sali Oguri (Plus 20% Off Sale Code for Pink Manhattan Purrfume)



What kind of personality wears Pink Manhattan Purrfume? Find out in today's featured article by the talented and lovely fragrance writer, Signature Scent Stylist Liza Wade: Interview with Pink Manhattan: Sali Oguri. Visit the article now and get a special year end bonus: Receive a limited time 20% sale code for your next purchase of Sali Oguri Pink Manhattan Purrfume! Liza has dedicated two decades to all areas of the beauty industry. Liza believes that your fragrance choice reveals insights into your personality. Contact Liza Wade at signature_scent@ymail.com

Special Thanks: It was an extraordinary pleasure being interviewed by Liza. I'm forever grateful and deeply moved, not to mention blown away by her unique, visionary capabilities!


Amaterasu




Ama (heaven) - terasu (light)

Japan's ancient mythological sun goddess Amaterasu, in many ways, resembles images of the Christ and of the Virgin Mary, also of Gaia (Mother Earth) and of Aphrodite (Venus / Isis / Columbina / Demeter / Astarte / Persephone). Such images are accompanied by classical literature on the elusive, poetic "origins" of the Japanese in stories depicting heaven, hell, concepts of good vs evil, morality and ethics, plus a pantheon of infinite gods and goddesses to rival Pokemon. Why is God female in Japan's version of the beginning of life? It doesn't matter, since the female is just incidental, a void; it's the deity in the shape of an earthly man who is the true sun god, who "dips his spear into the ocean" to symbolize manhood being the giver of life, in conjunction with the universe (there is a female with him, but only to be his helper, and she also learns a valuable lesson not to pursue him first). All of this seems to be indicative of the new (at the time, in the 6th century) Buddhist wave that swept the country, that led to Shintō deities being presented in a whole new (patriarchal, as the spear of man being a phallus) context, whereby the kami are born from the man + universe as the world materializes from divine inspiration (Idealism), in a narratively intriguing (dramatic, sensationalistic) style. Maybe the myth regarding the Japanese being a combination of Jomon and Yayoi ancestors is symbolic of the combination of cultures: Shamanistic nature worship combined with an image (human form and gender)-conscious "Bollywood" formula.

Both Amaterasu and Persephone (Roman = Proserpina) are associated with the snake, another phallic symbol of the giver of life. Also see Chaos at Wikipedia.

Japanese Creation Myth (712 CE) From Genji Shibukawa: Tales from the Kojiki

Related links:
Read about Persephone in Greek mythology at www.economicexpert.com

Greco-Buddhist art - Wikipedia

Koshintō - Wikipedia
Ko-Shinto (古神道, Ko-Shintō?) is the name given to the original Shinto tradition of the Jomon people still practiced today in some Ainu families and communities as well as in some Ryukyuan areas.


Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Happy Thanksgiving!



Wishing you and yours a warm Thanksgiving holiday weekend - We'd like to extend a great big THANK YOU from Pink Manhattan and WUJ Pruductions to all of our faithful readers in the USA and around the world!

Mudvayne - Forget to Remember



Monday, November 23, 2009

Japanese, Russian and the Uralic-Altaic Connection

There is debate over whether the Japanese language is in fact an Altaic language, and I don't know enough about etymology to comment on that, but since the grammatical structures of Uralic and Altaic are similar enough that they used to be categorized under one branch, I'd like to propose a theory, that Japanese may have at least a minimal connection to the Uralic language. For example, I recently read on an Ural-Altaic language forum that the Uralic word for mouth (or opening) is "suu". In Japanese, "suu" means to suck in by the mouth, as in "iki wo suu" (to breathe in) and suimono (a clear soup literally meaning "thing to suck in").

Also, I'd always pondered why the Japanese word for "no" was "iie". It didn't sound like the word "no" in any other language I'd known...except the Russian "nyet". Both have the "ie" sound.

Related links:

Finnish-Japanese language similarities (discussion): Visit www.finlandforum.org

Vowel Harmony - Explanation: Global Oneness

An Overview of the History of the Japanese Language by Daniel J. Vogler - 20 March 1998

Russian and Japanese Involvement with Pre-Communist Tibet: The Role of the Shambhala Legend by Alexander Berzin April 2003

Dreams of a Pan-Mongolian state: Sandan Tsydenov, Baron Ungern, Agvan Dorjiev, Nicholas Roerich - by Alexandre Andreyev
Section: Buddhism and Nordland 2008. (Saturday, 02 May 2009)

History of Buryatia (Ar Mongol) - The Mongolian Ancestral Homeland

The Origins of the Japanese people - Japan Reference, www.jref.com

Shinto – Japan: What is shintoism? - www.1000questions.net

Koshintō - Wikipedia



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



“Truth -- An ingenious compound of desirability and appearance.”

Ambrose Bierce (1842-1914)




Saturday, November 21, 2009

Arrogance Mix Lime Sugar



A lime doesn't have to be British to be great; a favorite affordable yet utterly pretty (albeit hypersweet and heavy) Citrus Gourmand is an Italian brand called Arrogance Mix Lime Zucchero (Lime Sugar)...In Lime Sugar, I find an olfactory journey spanning the Mediterranean and the Silk Road region with notes of lime, star anise, rose, hazelnut, sugar and musk. As far as being a Sparkling Cocktail goes, Lime Sugar seems to resemble a Caipirinha, the Brazilian national cocktail, except it isn't sour and has lots more zucchero where that sugar came from. Surprisingly, the dry down is an animalic (like civet), dirty musk as you might find in "L", Tendre Madeleine, Le Labo Labdanum, Jasmin 17 and Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur...

Please visit today's Examiner article: Featured Review: Arrogance Mix Sparkling Scent Cocktail Lime Zucchero (Lime Sugar)


Thursday, November 19, 2009

Pink Manhattan in the Top 100 Beauty Blogs


According to Top 100 Beauty Blogs
by Skincare-news.com team
posted on November 07, 2009:

"Pink Manhattan: Sali Oguri is a singer and songwriter. With her blog, you get a "sensorium of song and scent," as she puts it. Well-versed in perfume knowledge, she's able to draw comparisons between a handful of fragrances to give you a taste of what a particular fragrance evokes."

Thank you for the honor, Skincare News!

Check the Top 100 for all of the winners under Fragrance and other categories.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarin



As foliage slowly sweeps our city with shades of sienna and gold, I long to hold onto the last vestige of warmer days by immersing myself in green. My note of choice this season is the zesty lime...

Please visit The Examiner for the latest review: Featured Review: Jo Malone Lime Basil and Mandarin



Monday, November 16, 2009





Saturday, November 14, 2009

La Prairie Life Threads: Platinum, Gold and Silver



Swiss skin care line La Prairie has launched a new trio of fragrances called La Prairie Life Threads: Platinum, Gold and Silver (2009). Earlier launches by the line had proven to be pleasant but thoroughly mainstream offerings - Silver Rain, a spicy white floral blend, and Midnight Rain, a patchouli-based gourmand vanillic woody Oriental (in my mind similar to Estée Lauder Pleasures Delight or Britney Spears Fantasy). These new scents seem to have taken more risks, proving to be an exciting new direction for the mainstream / department store market, one that comes across as being more niche in aesthetic. I can't comment on the bottle since I haven't seen it in person, but I have a very nice copy of the bonus CD, a song also called "Life Threads" by New York based folk musician Lucy Kaplansky ( www.lucykaplansky.com). Here, I must tangent off a little...Dear La Prairie, how about a musical collaboration of Ms. Kaplansky with New York based singer Sali Oguri one day? Folk blended with my junk: Alternative-Electro-Rock-Pop whatever...why not? Please check out Pink Manhattan CD and Perfume dual launch called Pink Manhattan Song and Scent Sensorium (2005) at www.salioguri.com. We New Yorkers gotta stick together! Now, I will briefly summarize each La Prairie Life Threads scent, saving the best (my favorite) for last.

Please see my reviews of Platinum, Gold and Silver at today's Examiner article: New Launch and Review: La Prairie Life Threads: Platinum, Gold and Silver (2009)

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Burberry Brit



I love the crispness of Brit when it's cool out - it feels energizing...this kind of bold, bracing sharpness is perfect for New York City during this time of year (or so I feel this year...each year is different).

Please follow the link to today's featured review: Burberry Brit: modern English lime for cool weather

(Image above: from Burberry website. Below: Bloomingdale's ad (I'd like to try the men's Brit one day, too.))





Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Love is a Joke on Us



So, I think I've finally figured it out. The Muse where passion resides is the same part of our brain Jung calls the anima (animus), the perfected image of the opposite sex, with the opposite personality to ours. The Muse, our dark side, is Mary Magdalene to Jesus, the passion of Christ. The anima / animus conflicting relationship (MBTI and Personality theories) is the most attractive to us physically ("chemistry" is the modern day terminology for this phenomenon) but the conflicting personality type is also the least compatible with us (for example: INFJ - ESTP). They say God has a sense of humor, and that's why opposites attract!

From www.changingminds.org:
The Syzygy (the divine couple)
In combination, the anima and animus are known as syzygy (a word also used to denote alignment of planets), representing wholeness and completion.

(Image: Anima - Animus - junginla.com)

Sunday, November 08, 2009

Tool - Stinkfist




Epic recording by Tool.

Todd Rundgren - Hideaway



This is classic great songwriting, one of my fave songs with twists in Lydian mode, and still a great recording.

Saturday, November 07, 2009

Anna Sui Rock Me!



Please visit today's featured review: Anna Sui Rock Me! (2009): New Launch and Fragrance Review

The modern interpretation of the ambience, if not the spirit, of Woodstock and the golden age of rock 'n' roll, can be felt in Anna Sui Rock Me! (2009), a new Fruity Floral housed in a bottle shaped as a guitar in brightly colored shades, bringing a "Carlos Santana" mystical vibe to the nostalgic presentation. But you won't smell any meditational, Eastern - New Age - headshop patchouli or sandalwood - smoky, resinous, mystical incense - here. Anna Sui Rock Me!, like many newer brands of rock, is clean, polished and produced to perfection. The scent, although mainstream, appeals to me, and I'm convinced lovers of Prescriptives Calyx (1986) would find something familiar in Rock Me!, a crisp scent with a Green bend that's equal parts fruity and floral. The fruitiness isn't what I imagine to be the strawberry incense-filled air of the legendary Haight-Ashbury scene, but a sharp, fresh citric scent, with what smells to me like a touch of apple. Energized as an electric guitar and fuzz box, the zingy, juicy peach-berry-citric floral is also reminiscent of many favorites of mine over the years: Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue (2001), Salvatore Ferragamo Incanto Charms, Creed Spring Flower (1996) and Jean Patou Un Amour de Patou (1998), my go-to scent for almost every occasion back in the early 2000s or so. It's actually a rather dainty and elegant Fruity Floral, a bit on the sweet side but for me, not overwhelmingly so. It's much less sweet compared to Anna Sui's first fragrance. Perfect for daytime, this high-pitched composition has a hint of something aqueous making it smell modern and just a bit sporty.

I detect spice in here as well, something low-pitched and intense, perhaps a Marachino cherry note somewhere. It makes a good and logical follow-up to previous Anna Sui fragrances, particularly Dolly Girl on the Beach (2006) which to me smells almost identical to Light Blue, one of the world's leading bestsellers which, when it was launched, I swore smelled like a muskier (more baby powdery) version of my favorite Creed in the hot pink bottle. Anna Sui Rock Me! comes closer to the Spring Flower scent than even Versace Bright Crystal (2006), but there's kinship between those two newer fragrances as well. I'm not sure I'd buy this for myself, simply because it reminds me of so many I've worn, many which have inspired my own perfume creation called Pink Manhattan, a zingy-juicy peach white floral on a soft French Vanilla-skin musk base, but if I could dress up a Christmas tree or Chanukah bush with perfume, I'd turn it into a funky Anna Sui psychedelic guitar flacon shrine - tattoo art butterflies, peace signs and all.




Friday, November 06, 2009

Introverted Intuition and Music

"...Music would thus be the ultimate Ni playground: a medium in which one refers only to ways of seeing, completely on their own, massively incommensurable terms, and avoids all matters of external, real-world content.

"It's no big deal for anyone of any Lenore-type to attend to something in an Ni manner, focusing on the way of seeing rather than the content. The hypothesis of this page is that when you "get" a piece of music, you are indeed consciously attending to a way of seeing; and of course non-INJs are perfectly capable of understanding music..."

Read on at this link: Introverted Intuition and the Meaning of Music - The Lenore Thomson Exegesis Wiki



Thursday, November 05, 2009

Tom Ford Private Blend Moss Breches




It's been rumored Tom Ford Private Blend Moss Breches (2007) is being discontinued, a terrible shame if it's true considering Moss Breches, along with Tobacco Vanille, is among my very favorites in the designer's ultraniche line. Among these, Moss Breches is far, far away from the mainstream scents of today. It takes perfuminess to its highest level, played up by both Chypre and Oriental notes in a single composition, decadently retro in richly subdued earth tones. It's not a fragrance I immediately liked, but it's grown on me in the same way Penhaligon's Bluebell has. Both are what I'd refer to as "animalic", with the musky notes of labdanum and oakmoss being fairly pronounced in this dark, green Chypre blend, making it challenging to wear. However, it also has a warm and sweet, spicy gourmand charm to it. Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental comes to mind, except Moss Breches is a Chypre, along the lines of Sisley Eau du Soir and Paloma Picasso, just greener, with more damp earth-and-wet leaves - the deep foresty scent attributed to oakmoss. Shiseido Koto (1985), for those of you familiar with this hard-to-find fragrance, is probably closest to it in overall scent. Another comparison might be the discontinued Deneuve (1986), with Moss Breches being drier, dirtier, heavier and sharper. This is a strange, complex scent for those unfamiliar with the scent of Chypre, a classical perfume accord brimming with tradition and an antiquated past.

Moss Breches, of course, would not be without mossiness. Oakmoss and tree moss are controlled ingredients in the perfume industry since it was declared by IFRA that these age-old ingredients turn into formaldehyde upon skin contact. Today, most of what we call moss is synthesized, but many vintage perfumes and even certain upscale perfumes do in fact contain moss. The scent, to my nose, is like that of damp autumn leaves, a bit dirty in an outdoorsy way. Many perfumes from the 1960s and '1970s featured oakmoss, such as Chanel N°19, Estée Lauder Aliage and Ô de Lancome. Actually, the use of oakmoss has been around since the birth of the Chypre fragrance family, long before the legendary Coty Chypre and Guerlain Mitsouko were born Chypre is named as such because the accord was born in Cyprus during Greco-Roman rule (Read more about Cyprus here: Cyprus the Divided Country).

Another featured note in Moss Breches is labdanum. Labdanum is a resin traditionally used in Chypre compositions. It's a black resin taken from goat hair after the goats had grazed on the rock rose shrub and resins collected on their fleece. Although I'm skeptical that most Chypre fragrances today contain real labdanum taken from goat hair, the scent has remained a staple in perfumery. It has a heavy, resinous and almost woody, as well as animalic, scent, and acts as a fixative for perfume compositions (base note), making perfumes last longer.

Although Moss Breches smells like a traditional Chypre, I'm guessing the reason I like it so much is because it has a soft, almost vanillic aspect to it as well. The sillage is absolutely gorgeous, a dazzling mossy green. When I wear Moss Breches, I'm reminded of Japanese tea ceremony and its dark, refined green tea (which is a bitter taste/scent (and yet I love it)). According to Chypre Perfumes blog: "The Japanese use labdanum in their Neriko mixtures, which are used during tea ceremony". I guess I'm not far off at all in my perception of the scent! On the same blog, the author writes that "Egyptians used it in their Kyphi mixtures and the Hebrews burned it in their temples". Perhaps Moss Breches is the kind of scent that can bring all kinds of deeply spiritual associations to people the world over.

Monday, November 02, 2009

Ego Facto Poopoo Pidoo



Image: Art film icon, actress Catherine Deneuve, with a lovely flamingo striking a pose together

This is Ego Facto Poopoo Pidoo: metamorphosis into some fluffy yet graceful creature symbolic of all things "sugar and spice, everything nice" - sure, it's subjective, stereotypical girliness, but I like this very much. I find it beautiful but not haughty, rather bright, happy, graceful yet fun, sensible for daily wear but funky in a fresh and youthful way (and yes, a guy can wear it). Ego Facto Poopoo Pidoo (the French version of Betty Boop's famous "boop-boop-be-doop") was launched in 2009 and is one of the 4 feminine scents (3 are for men) in the niche line. I'm not sure how "niche" it smells since it resembles some good quality mainstream offerings out there, but it sure smells sensational. Poopoo Pidoo is a blend of orange blossom with sugary, hypersweet marshmallow-like notes of rice powder, amber, woods and musk. The composition is rounded out with additional citrus top notes to balance the whole and create a pleasant citric gourmand Floral. I also detect a touch of spice, like orange spice, but with these sugary base notes, it's far from bitter. The scent has the mellow, rich sweetness of fleur d'oranger candy. Packaged in a sleekly mod, hard-to-resist pale pink presentation, this is holiday wish list material.

To compare to other fragrances, I'd say it resembles the light, citric white floralcy of Le Labo Jasmin 17 or smellalike Love by Kilian, and the musky-powdery Kenzo L'Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo although Poopoo Pidoo is much sweeter and comparatively more floral. Marc Jacobs Blush also comes to mind, minus honeysuckle and with additional sugary notes as found in Aquolina Pink Sugar or Arrogance Mix Lime Sugar, all without the interference of woody base notes so the overall stays light and airy. Nina Ricci Nina lovers might like this one as well.

Poopoo Pidoo was created by Dominique Ropion, master perfumer behind many well-known masterpieces such as Givenchy Amarige, Givenchy Very Irrésistible (with Sophie Labbe & Carlos Benaim), Giorgio Armani Armani Code, Frederic Malle Une Fleur de Cassie and Carnal Flower, all of which I've loved at some point in my life. If you love sweet white florals as I do, you might find your perfect white floral within this perfumer's extensive repertoire.



Saturday, October 24, 2009

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame





Who doesn't love a good Shirley Temple? Ma Dame is my new Happy.

Seriously, this is a wonderful scent. Please see my review: Featured Review: Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame (2008)




(Images: beautyclub.co.nz, blogquirky, Sephora.com, Macys.com)

Guerlain Idylle



We know modern ceases to be modern when it stops being progressive. When modern has been overly institutionalized and looks more like neoclassical, postmodern takes the progressive role. This Nariciso Rodriguez for Her accord was new in 2003, but today, it's as mainstream as Fruity Florals and vanillic Gourmands. Guerlain Idylle (2009) compared to these seems ultra refined and perfected - the shiny new "back to the classics" ideal...

Please read the review at this link: Guerlain Idylle (2009) - A Teardrop from Venus

(Image: laparfumerie.ru)

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Fred Kimmel Space - CD Launch & Release Party, Sat. October 24, 2009





"Fred Kimmel - Into You
Elements of Nine Inch Nails and Celldweller can be found in this grungy, thrashing electronic ode to lust." - Keyboard Magazine - August 2009 - Unsigned Artist Of The Month


CD release party of Fred Kimmel – Space (2009 ASCAP Wuj Productions)


Launch details:
October 24th 8:00 PM – 11:00 PM
The Starving Artist Café and Gallery
249 City Island Ave
Bronx, NY
718-885-3779
No cover, all ages


www.starvingartistonline.com

Downloads available at www.fredkimmel.com

To purchase Fred Kimmel Space ahead of the launch date:
Click to go to CD Baby



Album Notes
The space between you and me, my headspace, the space we share, and the outer limits of our minds, where space becomes infinite. It is gravity that brings us together. We are all in Space, until we find each other, come closer and connect, spinning and spiraling endlessly into the space we call Love.

Fred Kimmel is now unleashing Space on the masses to hear his vision as an artist. This is a album of songs that reaches deep into your soul and pulls out those thoughts, dreams, emotions that you’ve been searching for. Fred Kimmel’s Space is not only a collection of amazing songs. It's a journey for your mind, body and spirit.

“Look in the mirror then you'll know”. Always Beautiful sends the most important message of all, reminding you that you are always beautiful. “Beautiful people never know”

Into You, Take Me and Oh Yeah are those visions of lust that occupy your daydreams and night dreams more than most will ever admit.

Jazz Bad contains the most amazing scat singing performance you've ever heard, by Sali Oguri with the most unconventional backing. It is the duet of Sali Oguri and Godzilla.

Riverflow is a beautiful song with sonic and musical textures of water, reminding us that no matter how far up or down you go in life, life will flow on like a river. Enjoy the ride.

Presumptuous - What a great word

Believe - The politician and the preacher keep telling me to do this every day.

Oh Lord Oh Lord - Oh Lord - Oh Lord

Dance All Day - I recommend that everyone dance all day, especially at work, when the boss, or the client or customer is really p***ing you off. What better way to break the ice? Everybody needs a shakey, shakey, shake.

ICU - I See You - What is it with the letters?

The Clock Burned Down - When you are all alone in the cage, remember to smile when you see the tiger jumping through the flaming hoop.



Saturday, October 10, 2009

Thursday, October 08, 2009

L'Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo

Please follow the link to my latest review at The Examiner: Featured Review: Kenzo L'Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo (2009)

Kenzo fragrances are generally well-respected within the perfume circles, revered as a mainstream line with niche aesthetics. On my latest Sephora run, I fell in love with one of their newest offerings, a Spring 2009 launch and flanker scent called Kenzo L'Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo. I couldn't remember the name of it, so I had to use a search engine to come across it again; this is the unfortunate thing about flanker names - had it been simply called Kenzo Indigo, I think I would've remembered it better. Anyway, this is nothing at all like the original L'Eau par Kenzo, which was a very light Marine Floral, as light, transparent and aqueous cool as Cool Water or Roxy. L'Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo smells more suited for evening or cold weather wear, perfect right now as it's gotten pretty cool here in New York City.

L'Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo features a decadent and sunny orange blossom and Sambac jasmine heart, on a thick ambergris-tonka-musk base. Because it's a very marshmallow sweet, low-pitched, densely powdery scent, I could see it's not for everyone, possibly being cloying for people who tend to get nauseated by very rich, sweet, heavy blends (and it's very musky, the kind of scent that lingers). As for me, this is a bit sweeter than I usually like my sweet fumes - if it had more woody notes, it could give Pink Sugar a run for its money. Oh, but this is no ordinary musk; it excites me and comforts me at the same time, and I've gotta get a bottle of it soon. If I'm to compare, it reminds me of a niche fragrance by Etat Libre d'Orange called Divin'enfant, a hypersweet ambrette musk and orange blossom blend. It also reminds me of Tanya Sarne Ghost, so if you appreciate base-heavy, sensual blends, this might be right up your alley.

Sugary yet dark, with a soft and pillowy texture, this is my kind of comfort scent. Maybe I could call it a comfort scent with a kick, or a hauntingly mysterious one. I really wish it had been launched as a new fragrance and not a flanker, because aside from the unmemorable name, the sporty bottle doesn't do anything for me, either. A perfume this wonderful deserves an exciting bottle of its own, but we buy for the juice inside, not the bottle, right? Kenzo has a winner here in my opinion, but please go sniff and decide for yourself; the love of perfume, like food, is completely dependent on individual taste, and it can't be predicted by reading opinions and notes alone. There's one more thing I'd like to add, that Sephora lists it under Floral, but to my nose, this is certainly a Floral Oriental. It's too bad they don't have such a category in their Fragrance Finder.

Wednesday, October 07, 2009

Winter 2009 - Nina Ricci Nina Precious Swarovski



Pearly-opaque and metallic pink, this new winter Holiday 2009 limited edition of Nina by Nina Ricci is adorned with Swarovski crystals. It looks very pretty in this photo, enough to want to hang on a Christmas tree. As for the scent itself, it remains one of my all-time favorite perfumes...

Please visit The Examiner for this report and brief review: Winter 2009 - Nina Ricci Nina Precious Swarovski