Saturday, January 31, 2009

Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Rose

Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Rose(1981) is an Aldehydic Floral consisting of the following notes: rosewood, geranium, rose, cedarwood, vanilla, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, orris, sandalwood, coumarin, musk and honey. It's a very powdery, old-fashioned rose-and-violet blend, smelling to me of vintage face powder and maybe some perfumey lipstick in that maquillage mix. It reminds me of Floris White Rose but more powdery, and potpourri stuffed inside lace adorned with satin ribbons, Oscar Wilde books and little women playing tea party. I used to think I could never learn to like this scent, even apart from all these associations (I never liked violet flavor in foods, and Ombre Rose also smells a lot like violet candies), but the other day, I pulled out the beautiful mini parfum I happen to have stashed away, and came away from the experience stunned by the sweet, almost gourmand-sweet heliotrope and coumarin in the low notes. The sweet, powdery-honeyed coumarin base is also reminiscent of Yardley English Lavender, a new favorite of mine this month. The honeyed-woody muskiness reminds me of Avon Sweet Honesty, too. The idea of soapiness and an edible, almond-like spicy-powderiness don't seem to go well together, but in Ombre Rose, the combination creates something elegant and comfortingly baby soft at once. Although Ombre Rose can be defined as an abstract rosewood scent, I think Ombre Rose is a piece of marzipan candy wrapped in an edible rose petal and just a smidgeon of violet creme. It's a wonderful creation for anyone who's into the traditionally girly. The antique mold used for the bottle is exquisite, and comes in a pale rose color for the EDT and jet black for pure parfum.

(1990 ad Images de Parfums)