Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Pascal Morabito Or Noir
Housed in one of my favorite modern bottle designs, Pascal Morabito Or Noir (1981) is a sophisticated and classic feminine fragrance which carried into the 1980s the Aldehydic Floral with green and chypre nuances from the era preceding it. With one breath, it transports you back to the time of Yves Saint-Laurent Rive Gauche, Caron Infini (1912, relaunched in 1971), Hermes Caleche and Paco Rabanne Calandre, with their roots dating back to the 1940s and '50s with perfumes such as Christian Dior Miss Dior, and even further back to the 1920s with Chanel No.5. I could describe the scent of Or Noir as a mossy-woody powdery floral, with a skin cream effect, also similar to Estee Lauder White Linen born just 3 years prior, a successful and beloved perfume to stand out among the stronger, more distinctive power-fumes ruling the period to follow. I particularly enjoy the cassis (blackcurrant bud) in this fragrance, a popular ingredient of the 1980s in perfumes such as Christian Dior Poison and Nina (the original launched in 1985) by Nina Ricci. There are sites that say Or Noir for Women is discontinued but it is up on Pascal Morabito's website (though I don't see pure parfum there) with the following notes:
Iris, tangerine, Cassis bud, Bergamot, Jasmine Rose of may, Daffodil, Patchouli, Oak Moss, Vanilla, Yland Yland tender, Oriental clove.
"OR NOIR is dedicated to a "city" lady, whose elegance is discrete and refined. This lady is not only elegant, she is demanding. She is concerned by her appearance and the image she will leave. OR NOIR is her mark."
Perhaps Or Noir borrows its statement from another sharp and green retro classic, Carven Ma Griffe, its name meaning "her claws" or mark.
(Image: Parfum de Pub)