Sunday, June 14, 2009

Juicy Couture Dirty English

Dirty English is today's feature at The Examiner: Featured Review: Juicy Couture Dirty English (2008)

Juicy Couture Dirty English (2008) is a millenial update of the classic English Leather accord for Men. It's very streamlined, and like Aerosmith, it's rugged and sexy without a hint of booze in the mix. At first sniff, I didn't care for the sparse and bipolar orchestration in which the spicy and cool top notes were piercingly high, and the base notes extremely low on the other side of the spectrum. I felt a bit off-balance, but then, I realized this is a scent to be worn, much better on skin than on paper or in the bottle, and when it contacts the skin, it becomes a fuller scent with noticeable florals in the heart. The floral note I smell is like an imprint of a flower - bright and "pop" - a blue hyacinth or gardenia note, and yet the overall is a super dry, leathery scent, as dry as a country dirt road. The scent begins more brash than it dries down; the end result is traditionally masculine with a fougere-like herbaceous-woody boldness, a tiny bit sporty but not overly so, the "Juicy" brought on by energetic California oranges. It has a much more subdued sillage than many leather scents in the Dry Woods olfactive family, and I appreciate that, since so many of them are too overwhemingly strong.

The notes according to Now Smell This are: peppered mandarin, blue cypress, Calabrian bergamot, caraway, cardamom pods, marjoram, black leather, “Santal Fatal” accord (a mix of sandalwood, Atlas cedar and vetiver), agarwood, ebony wood, black moss absolute, and amber musk. This is not a sweet scent at all, and I'll reiterate that it's very dry, but fitting with the times, it's just sweet enough that it veers more towards gourmand than it would anything traditionally perfumey. Think "bitter dark chocolate" and I think we come close to capturing its essence. The impression is warm and clean with just a hint of something animalic, and that's enough musk for me. Dirty English is the one I'm getting for my man, and I know I'll be spritzing myself with it from time to time because I love it so. It's a great fragrance, most deserving of the FiFi Award nomination it got this year.