Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Fragrance of the Moment

This is another exquisite fragrance by Boucheron. Sandalwood is listed as one of the key notes, and I know the sandalwood I'm smelling in here is not the Australian kind that was supposed to replace the beautiful East Indian Mysore sandalwood that used to be a staple in prestige perfumery before it became an endangered, rare ingredient. I love this perfume with a passion, my new signature for fall, and hope it'll never be altered or discontinued.

Jaïpur Saphir by Boucheron (1999) was created by perfumer Nathalie Lorson who is also the perfumer behind Chopard Wish, Jil Sander Sensations and Kate by Kate Moss. I have been a long time fan of the Boucheron perfume line since discovering the original launch, Boucheron of eponymous fame. The original was a scintillating, decadent "star fragrance" composed of orange blossom, tuberose, broom, amber, sandalwood and vanilla among many other notes; Jaïpur Saphir is a quieter Woody Floral but it borrows the Floral-Ambery (Floral Oriental) theme of the original and takes the sensuous effect to a peachier, softer side, with light spices on top, a deep, beautiful white floral heart featuring magnolia, and sandalwood with vanilla anchoring the base. I usually prefer my peaches unspiced, but this is an elegantly gustative offering by the top-of-the-line fragrance house and jewellery company. Soft yet rich, creamy and slightly powdery, Jaïpur Saphir is more complex than many of the newer fragrances being made today that tend to be more transparent, but it walks the tight rope between the classical and modern world effortlessly, with vanilla, tender fruits and flowers tempering bold woodiness with velvet gloves.

For comparison, it shares some of its effect with Van Cleef and Arpels Birmane which was launched in the same year. Birmane is sweeter and classified as Fruity Floral; it smells to me less opaque (creamy), comparatively rosier and fruitier with a transparent ambery musk base. Another comparable fragrance is Liz Claiborne Realities which shares with Jaïpur Saphir the creamy, peachy, woody-vanillic tone, luminous upon skin with serene and sensual effect.

The regal bottle is modeled after the same design for Boucheron Jaïpur (1997), its motif a bracelet which is considered a lucky charm in Rajasthan, with a cabochon faux sapphire cap, inspired by the luxurious gemstones from the Kashmir region.