Monday, June 06, 2011
Dear FiFi 2011 USA judges: I am absolutely thrilled that I will have the chance to sample Untitled by Maison Martin Margiela (L'Oreal / Givaudan) soon, because if the way Eva Longoria (Falic Fashion Group / Takasago) smells is an indication of the superior quality of the Perfume Extraordinaire nominees' 'jus', Untitled must be out-of-this-world. Dear friends, I was able to smell Eva even before I took it out of the package of samples I ordered; the scent was emanating through the glass vial, packing materials and all, asserting its fruity, sweet, charismatic scent, lodging a few tenacious molecules in my nostrils the way some Hollywood actress might blow kisses in the air towards fans and potential fans-to-be. This one hooked me with some long, French-manicured fingernails reaching way up my schnoz, marking the scent in my limbic system with the first live encounter, snuffing out all competition by out-sillaging the rest, leaving me with a lasting, memorable noseworm.
My first two thoughts created in me a bit of cognitive dissonance, but nothing alarming: 1. Mmmmmmmmm...this smells very peachy, like a real, juicy fresh peach! follwed by 2. Hmm...this smells a lot like the peach oil I use in Pink Manhattan Purrfume!!! So, I simultaneously felt swoony and strangely gipped, resentful of yet more of my ideas being stolen and repackaged by the invisible yet ever-present machine. Then, I reminded myself that peach fragrances have always been part of the fragrance universe which existed long before my parents were born, with peach playing what is an integral, often central, role in the composing of truly great, serious perfumes. So, how could it smell so ubiquitously mainstream, as familiar as a BBW or VS body spray, yet so mesmerisingly succulent, luminous and so well-crafted it seems effortless, like a drop of perfect dew?
To give you a simple breakdown of the scent, Eva smells like it's related to Benefit Maybe Baby (peach white floral) but softer (texturewise - the way it caresses the nose). I've seen it compared to Calyx, and yes, it has a bright and tropical, somewhat green freshness like that. It's more of a straightforward Fruity fragrance; it could pass for straight peach oil the way Child oil could pass for pikake. Eva may technically be a Fruity Floral (which is a subdivision of the Floral family), but you can't smell much flowers in it, save for an abstract edible rose like a velvety poached pear (it shares elements with Petite Chérie). If you've smelled Pink Manhattan, imagine just the peach and the green touches but minus the body and soul, all high-pitched cerebral aspects. Don't be discouraged. Eva's dry down is actually a warm, spicy bed of leather musk, but it's kept deep in the background to highlight the simple, true-to-life peach, brought to us by the innovative technological breakthroughs in partnership with naturally harmonious Nature. I do wonder sometimes if this way of blurring the line between natural and synthetic is as mutually beneficial to the Earth in the long run.
The presentation is Barbiefied enough that it should go from a Quinceañera to a wedding, and wait - it will also take you to professional situations provided you don't spritz more than once. It has a transparent fruity body spray effect while hitting more intricate notes and varied accords on the olfactive scale, so the scent won't bore more sophisticated perfume lovers. It won't satisfy the basenote lovers, as even with all its subtly implied body and soul, it's a light, sparkling scent, a typically girly (girly-marketed) Floral, but guys could easily wear this, it's so clean. As far as quality juice is concerned, Eva, a well-constructed beauty devoid of any obvious white musk and other "filler" gimmicks, gets my vote, but does it smell natural enough to live up to the hype, about Perfume Extraordinaire recognizing the Essential Oil Company? Aldehydes are listed notes; even if Eva doesn't smell particularly powdery and fizzy as Aldehydic Florals do, aldehydes are not notes found in nature. Yet, it's a most mouthwateringly lifelike olfactive snapshot, as shockingly fresh-smelling as The Body Shop Dewberry was the day it was launched; I'm going to call Eva mixed media and let you, the perfume cognoscenti, have the last word.
Untitled by Maison Martin Margiela - June 12, 2011
Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums Portrait of a Lady - June 27, 2011
Voyage d'Hermes - June 16, 2011
Odin 04 Petrana - July 17, 2011