Saturday, July 30, 2011

biehl parfumkunstwerke EO01

If you like Spicy Oriental fragrances along the lines of Givenchy Organza Indécence, you must try this exquisite offering by biehl parfumkunstwerke, a Hamburg-based niche perfume house established in 2006. Six perfumers have contributed to the project, each one naming their creations after their own initials. The name of the perfume, EO01, is taken from perfumer Egon Oelkers' initials (EO) plus number 01 indicating one of three creations credited to the perfumer. I get mostly cinnamon, vanilla and woods, although the wood note I keep thinking I'm smelling is sandalwood, not a listed note. It's a bit sweet and heavy but also incensey, down-to-earth and serene. I think it smells every bit as savory as Organza Indécence, with a more modern character like Xerjoff Verona 010 and Laurence Dumont Tendre Madeleine. I also notice a creamy, buttery note, as you may have smelled in Liaisons Dangereuses by Kilian. Imagine the buttery note sans plum, and you're there. I'd be surprised if EO01 didn't contain cashmeran musk. This is one of my favorite woody Gourmand discoveries this year, and I look forward to trying more from this high quality, highly conceptual line.