Monday, August 01, 2011
biehl parfumkunstwerke PC02
Here is another wonderful find, an obscure fragrance by biehl parfumkunstwerke, a Hamburg-based niche perfume house. Each time I sample this, I fall in love with it a little more. This is a unique composition, one that juxtaposes elements incongruent with each other, causing a slightly jarring dissonance, those elements being the sweet, powdery Gourmand aspect, the maquillage-musk aspect and the dirty, asphalt-and-motor oil musk powder aspect. One side is decidedly more Lorenzo Villoresi Teint de Neige while the other is the leathery, rebellious Molinard Habanita, while yet another part of it is an aspect shared by the other two, the part that reminds me of Etat d'Libre d'Orange Divin'enfant (my favorite in the line), a fragrance I've summed up as "dirty marshmallows". Come to think of it, it's really a lot like Divin'enfant but lighter and easier to wear. The combination also reminds me of L'Eau par Kenzo Eau Indigo, which I'd also describe as an urban powdery musk, if you will, but here, the style is Gourmand enough for those of us who need a bit of that sugary, high octane energy boost from our perfumes from time to time.
Maybe what's unsettling about it is that it smells like a good girl and bad girl in one - like something that transcends expectations, traditions and trends, living up to the notoriously feminine dichotomy attributed to our notoriously unstable female minds, so impulsive and unpredictable that it could go either way at any moment - all in lighthearted fun, of course. Imagine a perfume can smell even more complex than a mere dichotomy - see how sophisticated we have become.
Biehl parfumkunstwerke PC02 by perfumer Patricia Choux, one of six perfumers on the project, features bergamot, white lavender, cardamom and other spices on a patchouli base (the patchouli is barely recognizable in this (Edited: until the end when I detect "Portrait of a Woman" lite)). I smell honey, which is why it reminds me so much of loukoum; I may have finally found my ultimate loukoum scent. I've smelled a few others in the line, and they're OK, smelling like Marc Jacobs and other mainstream offerings that won't make anyone bat an eye, but this one sticks out like a square peg in the best possible way.