Saturday, September 17, 2011
Givenchy Dahlia Noir
The description of Givenchy Dahlia Noir reads as follows on Neiman Marcus' website: "A Couture fragrance all in pure lines, a return to supreme luxury. The quintessence of the Givenchy Style." It's a lot to live up to, but since sampling this new fragrance, I know Givenchy Dahlia Noir reigns supreme in the world of couture perfumery. I'm not exaggerating when I say Dahlia Noir is the second coming of Robert Piguet Bandit. If anyone is familiar with the leather note in perfumery, it is most often rendered by the copious use of musk. Take for example Molinard Habanita with its vintage face powder and raspberry lipstick-kissed rocker jacket greased with motor oil, or L'Artisan Dzing! with a drier, more somber, decidedly bolder and more streamlined approach to the leather blindfold accord. The crowning glory of the whips-and-chains "bad woman" Chypre genre, Piguet Bandit, is a notoriously bitter, dark green, murky, smoky and difficult perfume, as enigmatic as swampwater, as breezy as toxic waste hovering over certain parts of New York and our neighboring state of New Jersey, the home of the flavor and fragrance industry in the USA (it is a warm and filthy-sweet odor, nauseating and disturbing, especially pungent driving down the I-95). Back to Bandit: it's a torture of a perfume till you get to the vanilla dry down, which is delicious if you can ignore all the filth surrounding it.
Givenchy Dahlia Noir, a powdery Floral Chypre, its name a double-edged sword between kitschy shock and true horror (I'll take the former if pressed, but I dislike both for a perfume concept), only works as a perfume name because of the quality of the composition (if not raw materials - this is debatable), the 'soul' of its essence being as tactile in sensuality as the presentation suggests. A strictly modern Floral-Powdery perfume on a base of post-Cashmere Mist creamy-woody-powdery musk, this is today's refined jus, a graceful, cleanly structured perfume. The deceivingly light, sugary-sweet baby oil musk scent seems to reference Love's Baby Soft (!), while the iris and mimosa create a delightful juxtaposition with "nature-identical" (as the industry puts it), vegetal, invigorating green notes, giving the overall a violetty (orris root-like) character. Bringing strength, fullness and drama to the scene is the heart of traditional roses with an alluring peaches-and-cream quality. The dry down is increasingly aggressive, an ending more boozy and jewel-toned, much like Guerlain Insolence, but lighter, more ethereal, ghostly, even. Oh, yes, and here, you'll also find that all-important filth.
Dear Givenchy, everything rocks about this new launch, enough to call this the new Chanel, except I'd stay away from any "flesh colored" reference in your ad copy (please scroll down). No, you're not alone in going the "nude" direction this fall, but it wasn't cool when Bill Blass did it back in 1990 with their Aldehydic Floral perfume called Nude that never got off the ground. I don't think I need to explain why in 2011, it's just ignorant of the fragrance industry as a whole.
Givenchy – Dahlia Noir By Rommellyn– July 22, 2011
PERPETUATES THE GRAND TRADITION OF
EXCEPTIONAL FRAGRANCES, PRODUCTS OF
THE COUTURIER’S IMAGINATION, HARKING
BACK TO L’INTERDIT, THE VERY FIRST
FRAGRANCE CREATED BY HUBERT DE
GIVENCHY IN 1957.
TODAY, DAHLIA NOIR EVOKES AN ADDICTIVE
SENSUALITY, THE ENIGMA OF FEMININITY.
IN KEEPING WITH THE QUEST FOR QUALITY
AND TANGIBLE STRUCTURE IN THE EXERCISE
OF HAUTE COUTURE, AS PRACTISED BY THE
FOUNDER HUBERT DE GIVENCHY AND
PURSUED WITH SUPREME MASTERY BY
RICCARDO TISCI, DAHLIA NOIR MEETS
THE CRITERIA OF A FRAGRANCE CRAFTED
LIKE A COUTURE GOWN, A PERFUMING
GARMENT THAT SWATHES THE WEARER’S
BODY IN AN OLFACTORY FABRIC. TACTILE,
SENSUOUS AND PRECIOUS, DAHLIA NOIR
CLOAKS AS MUCH AS IT LAYS BARE.
DAHLIA NOIR HERALDS A NEW PHASE IN
THE HISTORY OF GIVENCHY FRAGRANCES,
A RETURN TO THE ROOTS OF EXCEPTIONAL
FRENCH PERFUMERY AND ABSOLUTE LUXURY.
WITH ITS SPARE ARCHITECTURAL
LINES AND PERFECTLY
THE BOTTLE SEEMS TIMELESS. SOLID YET
DELICATE, ELEGANT YET PARED-DOWN, AT ONCE
POWERFUL AND YIELDING, IT IS A SYNTHESIS OF
OPPOSITES, LIKE THE FRAGRANCE IT CONTAINS,
LIKE THE DAHLIA NOIR WOMAN HERSELF.
DAHLIA NOIR EAU DE PARFUM COMES IN THREE
SPRAY FORMATS. THE 50ML AND 75ML SIZES
ADOPT THE RECTANGULAR FORMAT WITH ITS
SPARE, SOLID OPULENCE.
THE 30ML BOTTLE RETAINS THE SAME GRAPHIC
SIGNATURE BUT WITH A SLIMMER FORM, TAKING
ON A VERTICAL DYNAMIC. THE BLACK LACQUERED
CAP, HIGHLIGHTED WITH BEVELLED EDGES
IN MIRROR-FINISH SILVER AND THE FLESH-COLOURED
FRAGRANCE ITSELF ARE RECURRENT FEATURES
THAT UNITE ALL THREE VERSIONS.