Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Chanel Les Exclusifs 1932
Here's the talk of the town, a great new launch since Beige and Jersey. I definitely smell Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon in this; it's that same piercing top note that smells like orange spice that grabs me from the start. The rest is a whole other type of scent, save for a bit of leatheriness in the overall feeling--nouveau Chypre, I'd say again--but this time, there's a jasmine note reminiscent of Parfums del Rae Amoureuse, Guerlain Les Secrets de Sophie and Serge Lutens A la Nuit, a sort of heavy and linear-feeling, yet not very sweet jasmine, at the heart of Chanel 1932. That doesn't make this a necessarily Floral composition, however; I smell something dry and woody as well as aforementioned leather, bringing to mind Jean Patou 1000 without the fruit, Miss Dior, or Miss Balmain and other gardenia-leathers in that genre of authentically perfumy perfumes of yesteryear (edited to add: I'm also reminded of Parfum d'Empire Ambre Russe,which shares with 1932 the citric spice and the modern leather type aroma). Although this is a squeaky clean rendition of parfum fourrure devoid of dirty animalics or anything carnal in the jasmine itself, lovers of the Rue Cambon scents Bois des Iles and Cuir de Russie (both of which resemble No.5 but are smokier) will find 1932 more in line with their taste than, say, the Gardenia aficionada (although the Cristalle EDP lover might find it appealing).
Although it's billed as a powdery jasmine, I'd say it smells more dry and dusty with a hint of spicy amber in it somewhere, not so far away from Caron En Avion or the Jean Patou Cocktail collection in its perfuminess combined with sharp, spicy edges as if to give the fragrance more sparkle like gemstones or the top notes of bubbly champagne, rendered without the overload of aldehydes a la No.5. Chanel 1932 is more loamy than scintillating, but I enjoy it for what it is: a nostalgic scent with a boozy vintage atmosphere, which takes me closer to the world of Old World Perfume--Weil Secret de Venus or the little French parfum miniatures I own in little-known scents like Air de France and Cinq a Sept. Chanel 1932 if anything is worthy of its name, for the scent captures the era so eloquently. (image: graindemusc.blogspot.com)
Last edited: 4:06 am