Sunday, August 11, 2013

My Midsummer 2013 Top 10 Fragrance List



The cream of the crop among the white florals which happen to be my ultimate favorite genre of fragrances is this beautiful beachy gardenia called Annick Goutal Gardénia Passion, created by pianist-perfumer Annick Goutal after being inspired by her trip to Japan. Even though I say it's beachy, I generally describe white florals as such; the sweet and creamy olfactive texture can be compared to the scent of coconut oil or milk, evocative of the tropics. My guess is that the perfumer had visited a subtropical region where gardenias were in bloom during her visit. In actuality, Gardenia Passion is both beachy-creamy and nature-oriented green, intensely floral but with a subtle oakmoss base giving it a foresty feel, very much evocative of a Japanese garden as the perfumer intended.

Gardenias are among my favorite white flowers, a note I use in my own perfume creations. This summer, I'm rediscovering my beloved gardenia and related tuberose perfumes from the past, those I've loved and worn extensively yet inexplicably stopped wearing, such as the now empty bottle of Creed Fleurissimo I have yet to replace in my wardrobe. I'm also getting myself fully acquainted and in tune with the new breed of rose fragrances on the market, Van Cleef and Arpels Féerie Rose des Neiges (a limited edition holiday scent from 2011) and this year's stunner by the venerable House of Serge Lutens, La Fille de Berlin. All in all, it's been a good perfume year for me, one in which I've both discovered new things to love and old things to newly appreciate again.

Inspired by a recent perfume article in a magazine, I had a brief affair with the skin scents, ranging from the new creamy florals a la See by Chloe to the fresh aquatic 1990 classic Acqua di Gio (plus I always have Kenzo Amour on stand-by), but my fragrance mood has veered toward florals and more traditionally perfumey fare in lieu of musks evocative of young nude skin. For me, the white floral scents are fleshy enough skin scents, and delectable enough to enjoy like elegant edible flowers. We're still in midsummer here in NY, where the average temperature has dropped compared to July, and the nights are noticeably cooler, but there are plenty of days left to do all those summery things; I've been to the country, the pool, and now I'm hoping to spend some time at a beach where I can waft my white florals and salty / spicy roses (my beach roses) to my heart's content.

My Midsummer Top 10:

1. Annick Goutal Gardenia Passion
2. Van Cleef and Arpels Feerie Rose des Neiges
3. Creed Fleurissimo
4. Chloe Eau de Parfum
5. Guerlain L'Heure Bleue
6. L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse aux Papillons
7. BCBG Max Azria Bon Chic
8. Cartier Panthere
9. Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin
10. Serge Lutens Gris Clair